Ham Hill is crunch time.
The first time I went to Turku I got lost. That may sound like a damning admission from a travel writer, so I’d better say that it doesn’t happen often.
Energy. That's what Tampere has. And I don't just mean the vibrancy of the modern city: Tampere was founded on energy, specifically the power of falling water.
It’s -5° Celsius and I’m sweating. Normally I’d have stopped to shed a layer or two by now but this is a sprint.