Lisbon is a delight for hunters of high quality local goods and produce
Lisbon’s dated nature ensures that many of the shops that celebrate local products and skills – that have been wiped out in most modern cities – are still easily found. The city is filled with all manner of nooks and crannies where you’ll find local goodies that have produced here for generations.
Head up to Rua São Bento in Rato for a world of antique stores. Here you’ll find anything from tatty old tables to pristine grandfather clocks. Some of the best shops include Brique a Braque de São Bento (00 351 21 395 31 65), Cinco 50 Zero and Janelas de São Bento (00351 21 396 83 39, www.jsbento.com). There are also some local crafts shops on Sao Bento, which are among the city’s best. Soc Comercial a Rocha (00 351 21 395 91 35) sells excellent glassware and Cavalo de Pau (00 351 21 396 66 05, www. cavalopau.no.sapo.pt) has some pretty handmade furnishings.
This is the real heart of Old World traditional trade and crafts that Lisbon is so famed for. Many of the old school traders of the Baixa have been here for more than a century. The concentrated grid of streets makes for a colourful collection of perfumeries, haberdashers, tailors and herbalists. Casa Macario (00 351 213 420 900, www.casamacario.com) on Rua Augusto sells local tea, port, wine and cigars. Alceste on Rua da Conceição is a charming old-school perfumery. Also Luis S Fernandes on the same street is a traditional haberdashers, selling vintage furs. Also, on Rua da Conceição there are some very elegant antique jewellers, such as Aurea, Correira and Diadema.
You can’t leave Lisbon without some delicious chouriço (local sausage) for your fridge at home. The Manuel Tavares (00 351 213 424 209), on Rua da Betesga, sells all manner of stinky cured meats and cheeses. For excellent local wine, head to Napoleão (00 351 218 872 042, www.napoleao.co.pt) on Rua do Fanqueiros. While the Douro Valley wines traditionally have the strongest reputation, it's worth looking out for a few bottles from the Alentejo region, which has started to compete in the local quality wine stakes.
This boho neighbourhood is famed for its nocturnal behaviour but if you look beyond the many bars of this quirky neighbourhood you’ll find some fun little shops. Foodies should head for Mercearia di Atalaia (00 351 21 342 11 04, www.merceariadaatalaia.com) on Rua da Atalaia and A Carioca (00 351 213 420 377) on Rua da Misericordia. For cheesy gifts and knick-knacks such as porcelain cockerels and key rings look for A Vida Portuguesa on Rua Anchieta (00 351 213 465 073, www.avidaportuguesa.com) and The Wrong Shop (00 351 213 433 197) on Calçada do Sacramento.
Big chain superstores have arrived in Lisbon, but not on quite the same scale as in other Western cities. This is still a town where many will drag their shopping trollies around the local market to pick up their weekly requirements. The most famous market is the Feira de Ladra (Campo de Santa Clara, every Tuesday and Saturday, 6am – 5pm), which translates as thieves’ market. A Portuguese equivalent of a car-boot sale where people come to buy and swap household junk. The other major market is Ribeira Market (every Sunday morning, 9am – 1pm, near Cais do Sodré). A foodie’s heaven, where you’ll find good local produce, in particular some excellent wines and cheeses.
More expert advice on Lisbon
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