A remarkable modern art collection in a delightful setting.
The Peggy Guggenheim Collection, in a quaintly truncated Grand Canal palazzo, is home to the collection of the remarkable Peggy Guggenheim (1898-1979), who used her not inconsiderable fortune in the early and mid 20th century to snap up art – and artists. Her list of lovers included Yves Tanguy and Samuel Becket; she married Max Ernst though not for long.
Friends and acquaintances featured in this wonderfully accessible gallery include Picasso, Brancusi, Max Ernst and Jackson Pollock. Out on the little canal-facing terrace stands a horse and (stark naked) rider by Marino Marini: one of Peggy's party tricks, reportedly, was to unscrew his member and thrust it upon men she fancied.
I love this gallery, where Peggy G's mischievous spirit still seems to hold court. But the sculpture-filled garden – where Peggy is buried – is also a delight, as it the pretty café.