Seville has a very lively and varied shopping scene, though opening hours can often be confusing. Large stores and shopping malls usually stay open all day (10am-8pm), but smaller shops still follow the traditional pattern of closing between 2pm and 5pm. Almost all shops are closed on Sundays, except in December (leading up to Christmas).
The main shopping streets in Seville are Calle Sierpes, running from the Campana up to Plaza Salvador, and Calles Tetuan and Cuna, which run parallel on either side of Sierpes, together with a number of neighbouring streets. At one end, The Plaza Nueva, now mostly traffic free, is the coming place for chic boutiques, such as Loewe (no 12, Tel 34 954 225 253, www.loewe.com), Carolina Herrera (no 8, Tel 34 954 500 418, www.carolinaherrera.com), and Seville's own Victorio & Lucchino (no 10, Tel 34 954 502 660, www.victorioylucchino.com), and it also boasts a Nespresso shop (no 8, www.nespresso.com/#/es/es ) next to the Hotel Inglaterra (I keep an eye out for George Clooney...).
In the Plaza Duque de la Victoria, at the other end, you'll find the main El Corte Inglés department store (no 8, Tel 34 954 957 000, www.corteingles.es), which is my second home. And for electronics, gadgets, cameras, DVDs, books, music and more, you will find everything you're looking for at the huge FNAC store at Avenida de la Constitución, 8 (tel. 34 954 596 500 www.fnac.es )
Seville also has a plentiful variety of interesting markets' including its traditional food markets, Triana, Arenal, Encarnación, and Feria. My favourite of these is Triana, which has recently been refurbished, but retains its traditional ambience. It's built over the archaeological remains of San Jorge castle, and there's a viewing point in the market from which you can look down into the ruins. Encarnación, which is now a bit run down, is in the process of being given a new home in the futuristic development in the plaza across the street (the 'setas' or mushrooms, as the locals call it – I call it an unfortunate eyesore). The Arenal (Calle Pastor y Landero) is in the process of sprucing itself up with new stalls and a wonderful albeit somewhat pricey fish restaurant, and the Feria market has the wonderful and very cheap La Cantina for fabulous fried fish. The markets are open from 8am to 3pm, except Sundays, and all have colourful displays of fresh fish, meats, and fruit and vegetables.
The flea market El Jueves takes place in Calle Feria on Thursday mornings and is a good place to pick up a bargain, though local legend has it that if something is stolen from you, you can probably buy it back here. There is also a Sunday morning arts market in the Plaza del Museo, and a coin and stamp market in the Plaza del Cabildo off Constitución (in front of the Cathedral), also on Sunday morning.
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