Whenever I'm in Split I always have a look round the pazar (open-air market), staged each morning just outside the eastern walls of Diocletian’s Palace, between the ferry port and the old town. Here you'll find stalls laden with fresh, seasonal fruit and vegetables, plus a row of flower sellers, and a section devoted to leather bags and belts, sunglasses and beach gear. A 10-minute walk west of here, in the heart of the old town, you might also take a look in the peskarija (covered fish market) where local fishermen barter mounds of silver scaled fish, twitching pink shrimps, and slippery squid and octopus.
If you're looking for some good bottles of wine to bring home, try Vinoteka Bouquet (Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 3; + 385 21 348031) at the west end of the seafront promenade - they stock a fine selection of quality Dalmatian wines, plus olive oil and Istrian truffle products. In the old town, Uje ( Marulićeva 1; + 385 21 342719; www.uje.hr) also specialises in olive oil and olive oil products, such as green olive pate, goats' cheese preserved in olive oil and capers in olive oil.
However, my favourite shop for gifts has to be Aromatica (Šubićeva 2; + 385 21 344061; www.aromatica.hr) in the old town. They do their own line in environmentally-friendly soap, shampoos and body creams, using essential oils extracted from local herbs such as rosemary, lavender and sage – if you buy presents, they’ll wrap them beautifully in recycled brown paper decorated with shells and dried flowers.
Another great place to shop for gifts is the podrum, a long dark underground tunnel running from the seafront to the Peristil, below Diocletian’s Palace, lined with stalls selling paintings, prints, ceramics and inexpensive jewellery. Through summer they stay open daily till 11pm.
If you’re interested in contemporary art, Galerija Jaman (Šubićeva 3; +385 21 342791; www.jaman-art.com) stocks brightly coloured canvases, posters and postcards, by local painter Danijel Jaman, with sailing boats among his favourite themes.
And for English-language novels, travel guides and maps, call at Algoritum (Bajamontijeva 2; + 385 21 348030; www.algoritam.hr) in a side street between the Peristil and the main square.
For general information on what to expect of shopping on the Dalmatian Coast, see my Shopping in Dalmatian Coast page.