Food and drink
Fife (pronounced ‘fee-fay’) does local dishes served in generous portions, just as they would be at home. Look out for brudet (fish stew served with polenta), bakalara na bjanko (salted cod cooked with potatoes and onions), sarme (cabbage leaves stuffed with mince and rice) and punjene paprike (stuffed peppers). They also do great fresh fish, nothing fancy - sardines, mackerel and tuna - the sort of fish that local fishermen usually keep for their families.
The fish is always good - ask the waiter what’s special that day.
Guests sit at wooden tables and benches overlooking the fishing boats in Matejuška harbour. There are tables both indoors and out - if you sit inside you get paintings by local artists on the walls, and budgies in cages chirping above the bar. If it's crowded, you’ll share a table with other customers - fishermen, journalists, actors, pensioners and tourists (the French especially seem to like Fife). It's ideal if you're travelling alone as you won't feel out of place at all.
The staff are warm and friendly, but with no false smiles. You are here on their terms. Service can be a little slow when they get too busy - if you complain, you’ll be advised to go elsewhere.
Overlooking Matejuška fishing harbour, it's a five-minute walk west along the coast from Split’s old town.
Expect to pay 140-180 kuna for a two-course meal for two, with house wine. For this money, it’s very unlikely that you’ll find anything so good in or around Split.
- Backpackers / Students
- Seasoned travellers
- Great views / scenery
- People watching
- No fuss