Food and drink
Chef Stefano Preli steers a safe and mostly dependable middle course between culinary pretension and same-old tradition. Potato gnocchi in angler fish sauce, or baked suckling pig with potato and hazelnut purée and fruit 'mostarda' are two typical dishes - creative but tasty. He does some interesting variations on Roman stalwarts too - like the inventive (and delicious) deconstructed tiramisù, served in a glass with coffee granita in place of the usual coffee-soaked sponge fingers. At lunch a smaller selection of the same dishes is on offer at lower prices - plus a few good main-course salads. The wine list is full of interesting left-field selections, and the mark-ups are surprisingly reasonable.
Old-fashioned artisan's workshop meets nouveau-retro gentleman's club. There's even a vaulting horse. The interior designer also worked on 'Gusto - which shares some of the same retro factory feel.
The waiter dropped one of my mackerel kebabs just as it was heading tablewards - but he was terribly apologetic, and overall I was pretty impressed by the service, which is not of the glacially cool school that you often find in such stylish joints.
It's on the quieter eastern stretch of Via Tiburtina, near Rome's main La Sapienza University and on the northern edge of the funky San Lorenzo district.
Allow around €45 a head for dinner with a decent bottle of wine; at lunch, you can get away with €20 or even less.
- Business travellers
- Seasoned travellers