Food and drink
I’ll list just two of the dishes I had on my last visit so you get an idea of how elaborate Cristina Bowerman’s cooking is: Felicetti spaghetti (a highly regarded brand from northern Italy) with cream of roast peppers, slices of bottarga (grey mullet roe), goat rennet and frigitelle (a very Roman variety of green pepper – sweet rather than hot). And white fish (I can’t honestly remember which) grilled in paprika and on a bed of thinly-sliced globe artichokes with Jerusalem artichoke sauce, served with a lemon confit. Elaborate maybe – but good too. And the wine list is a delight, clearly compiled by someone who knows their Verdicchio from their Greco di Tufo.
The décor is striking – especially compared to your average Trastevere trattoria. Rusted Corten walls, incisions in the floor covered with glass, harbouring wine bottles resting on a bed of white pebbles, pendulous copper cylinder lamps. Yes, they got a designer in. If you’ve come to Rome for traditional trattorias and pizzerias, you’ll probably hate it. But as I live here all year round and see enough traditional trattorias and pizzerias, I actually find it quite refreshing, and it’s cheaper than flying to New York.
This has improved considerably since the early days. The waitstaff are still pretty stylish, or maybe just pretty, but they’re also attentive and courteous.
It’s on a corner site in the bustling heart of Trastevere.
Three courses will set you back 65 euros a head just for the food part – to which you should add at least another 20 euros each for wine and service. So count on spending at least 150 euros for two people, based on two courses each and a shared dessert.
- First-time travellers
- Seasoned travellers