Food and drink
Although ingredients such as foie gras, lobster, turbot and veal sweetbreads may sound very classic, Yannick Alléno subtly modernises grand cuisine with impeccable technique and plenty of inventivity to maximise flavours. Alléno is also very proud of his Parisian roots – the last time I came here, I tried his interesting Parisian terroir weekday lunch menu, which revalorises local produce, such as Argenteuil asparagus, mushrooms grown in Parisian stone quarries (prepared as a duxelles with Normandy sole) and revived recipes like lamb Champvallon – slow-cooked lamb sandwiched with onions and potatoes. Pastry chef Camille Lesecq is also brilliant and the concoct yourself millefeuille – brought to table on a trolley and constructed before you – is a tour de force of showmanship.
Elegant Parisians, well-fed business magnates, the international gourmet set dine here in a gloriously out-of-its-time Neo-Rococo setting, with gilding, chandeliers, well-spaced tables and a painted ceiling of blowsy nymphs.
Smartly attired and plentiful, with just the right amount of humour to alleviate the obsequiousness.
Right in the centre of Paris in one of the city's grandest hotels facing the Tuileries gardens on the rue de Rivoli.
This is splurge territory: expect to spend around 200 euros a head à la carte; the Paris terroir lunch menu costs 78 euros.
The hotel also contains the less formal, less expensive Le Dali lounge-style restaurant (+33 1 44 58 10 44), under the same chef – a fashionable rendez-vous for Parisiennes who lunch or for informal business meals on luxury snacks and inventive dishes, or for Afternoon Tea.
- Business travellers
- Seasoned travellers
- Special occasions