Food and drink
Chef Christian Beaufront cleverly juggles French tradition and cosmopolitan influences – something as traditional as his trademark "pot-au-feu de cochon aux épices", a tender pork stew, is enlivened by his use of spices and also comes in a "Tokyo" version with tempura. The "around a soup" lunch menu is an incredible bargain – on my last visit, creamy fennel soup poured from a jug at table, followed by a thick slice of pollock, served on an excellent ratatouille, although there's no choice so you can sometimes come unstuck. A la carte there's more choice. As well the pot-au-feu de cochon aux épices, try dishes like pork cheeks with quince or succulent veal steak, while almost everyone seems to choose the glass of creamy chocolate for dessert. However, it's in the clever seasoning that the food stands out – lemony spinach, a dollop of black olive tapenade in the soup. And a wine list that promises some regional finds.
A relaxed, unhurried, spruced-up bistro setting – blown up wine photos on the walls, dangling lights, and a frieze of pigs dancing across the menu. It's busy with chatty locals at lunch ranging from suits to polonecks.
The dining room is overseen by Madame Beaufront, with a welcome that is discreet and calm yet friendly.
On a busy street in the Butte-aux-Cailles, a villagey enclave in the 13th arrondissement, with convenient métro and bus connections all over Paris from Place d'Italie.
There's an incredible value 14 euro lunch menu and a three-course 31 euro menu carte; courses can also be ordered individually (starters 10 euros, main courses 18.50 euros, desserts 9 euros).
Across the street, L'Avant-Goût Côté Cellier sells cooked dishes, grocery items and wines.
- Families with younger children
- Mature travellers
- Seasoned travellers
- No fuss