Food and drink
I thought the food was wonderful, light and inventive, and although they can serve you a conventional starter, main course, dessert formula, it's much more interesting to go for the smaller tapas-style tasting portions, although sadly prices can soon rocket. Modernised classics might range from light sea bream carpaccio or asparagus and sorrel velouté to gutsy, cleverly spiced, bone marrow on toast or a yuzu soufflé.
The pigeon and foie gras wrapped in cabbage is a star dish.
Chic designer snacking: an elegant Left Bank set meets international foodies, as you sit on high red stools around the bar, with views of other diners and the energetic preparations going on in the open kitchen.
Professional and discrete. In the kitchen staff have swapped chef's whites for smart black tunics.
Smart Left Bank, on the ground floor of the Pont-Royal hotel in the antiques and publishing district off boulevard St-Germain.
Tasting portions start at 14 euros and go up to 50 for caviar; full-size main courses are around 35 euros; tasting menu 150 euros. Although it's all too easy to spend a fortune here.
There's a new branch at 133 avenue des Champs-Elysées, with a similar tasting menu plus skewered meats.
- Business travellers
- People watching