Food and drink
Hardly innovative but good satisfying French cooking with a seasonal twist. On a recent visit our main course of a succulent veal chop with tagliatelle and oyster mushroom sauce was satisfying if lacking in vegetable accompaniment, a guinea fowl parmentier was juicy though slightly underseasoned – while we saw neighbours tucking into a pile of lamb chops and Black Angus beef. There are fish options too, such as mullet with aniseed, as well as a vegetarian risotto. Desserts revisit old faves: rice pudding with a great dollop of confiture du vieux garçon (a sticky conserve of dried fruits and almonds), a "deconstructed carambar cheesecake", actually a verrine of fromage frais with thick caramel topping only for the extremely sweet-toothed, and a créme brûlée delicately flavoured with lemongrass. It's also a bar, where you can come for a drink all day long, or cocktail in the evening.
Trendy yet adult: at the more stylish end of the [node:174724] spectrum. Particularly pleasant for Sunday lunch, when the quays are closed to vehicles and the bistro fills with eclectic arty types, the occasional tourist, and families with pushchairs in tow.
Casual yet efficient, friendly waitresses.
Canal-side setting in the building that was epitomised in Carné's film Hôtel du Nord.
Main courses mostly in the 16 to 20 euro range, with a few pricier items. Allow around 35 euros for three courses.
Tables to book
I prefer the front section, although there is also the raised "library" at the rear, and a few tables outside in summer.
- Families with younger children
- First-time travellers
- Seasoned travellers