Food and drink
Plumail uses fine, fresh ingredients to prepare dishes of well-worked invention – but which never push towards the outer edges of weirdness. On the frequently-changing 20 euro menu, you might find salmon marinated with citrus fruits followed by cod à la plancha with Provençal tomatoes. These are items which it is terribly easy to like.
Other specialities include roast duck with peaches, line-caught sea-bass à l’orange, turbot with fresh almonds and girolle mushrooms and – a particular favourite of mine – saddle of lamb in olive-flavoured pastry.
I’d be very surprised if, after all that, you didn’t emerge satisfied, the more so that there’s a hefty, and reasonably-priced wine list. If you wish to stay with regional wines, try those from the Château-Sainte-Roseline. They’re among the finest in Provence.
As already mentioned, the Univers is a meeting place for Niçois professionals and notables. The law courts are nearby, so there’ll be a smattering of barristers about. Also, perhaps, senior worthies from the town hall.
So the atmosphere is sensible but light-hearted. The worthies are, after all, off-duty when they’re here. On occasion, this suits a certain sort of tourist (ie, me) very well indeed.
Professional and restrained.
On one of Nice’s main boulevards, looking across to the central Place Masséna and the Old Town.
We’ve already discussed the 20 euro, three-course menu – which I still can’t quite believe. After that, there’s a more elaborate, four course menu for 45 euros, and seven courses for 71.70 euros. For this quality, such prices don’t represent robbery.
- Business travellers
- Special occasions