Food and drink
It’s the 12-course ‘R’-evolution (sic) menu which grabs the attention, with its nitro-dragon vodka (see steam come out of your nose), round liquid pizza (don’t ask) and columns of this and trompe-l’œil of that. Whatever Faure says about techno-emotions, it’s essentially terrific fun – and the tastes are a blast, to boot.
But the food is quite as excellent and interesting across on the more orthodox menus. I’m particularly impressed with a lobster dish, which has lobster meat wrapped in other lobster meat, with squid gnocchi and chicken broth. Think about it and you’ll imagine it works. Eat it and you’ll prove it. And that’s just one dish out of very many – none of which you would have ever, ever thought of at home.
Which, of course, is one of the key reasons for going to a restaurant.
Could be completely up itself, as trail-blazers so often are. But it isn’t. After make-over work in 2010, the place has opened up better both to the kitchen and to the garden outside, where there’s a dining terrace. The restaurant is playful and friendly, in a top-end sort of way.
Slick, skilled and informal.
Central enough, but on a quieter boulevard, where richer folk have their flats and offices.
At 100 euros pp, the ‘R’-evolution menu saps the wallet significantly, the more so that it’s served to the whole table, or not at all. But you’re unlikely ever to have eaten like this before – and it remains cheaper than El Bulli or Blumenthal. The more orthodox menus start at 39 euros, or 25.70 for lunch.
- Special occasions