L'Acchiardo

Address: 38 Rue Droite, Nice, 06000, France
Telephone: 04 93 85 51 16

- Mid-range

4.2

Queue right here for some of the best fish soup in town – and then there’s the "merda dé can" .

When I have an urge for proper Niçois food provided by proper Niçois people amid proper Niçois boisterousness, I have a mental list of four or five restaurants which will satisfy me. I make for whichever one is closest, though sometimes I pretend l’Acchiardo is closer than it really is. Their fish soup has that kind of pull.

The Acchiardo family have been running the place – hidden away in the Old Town - since 1927. I doubt they’ve expanded it much in that time. So, given its popularity, it’s a bit of a scrum. You must really quite like your fellow man, for you’re pretty much sitting in his lap.

I doubt they’ve done much about the décor very recently, either. Thank heavens. The odd beam, hanging copper utensils and dried flowers suit me fine. And, even if they didn’t, I’d still go for the pleasure of genuine local dishes being lustily enjoyed by genuine locals and genuine tourists alike. I’d also advise you to book ahead, even if it’s only earlier on the day you intend to go.
 

Food and drink
4.3
90%
Service
4.4
90%
Food and drink
4.3
90%
Value for money
4.2
90%
Ambience
4.2
90%
Location
4.4
90%

Food and drink

If you already know Niçois cooking, there are few surprises here. That’s the point of the place. If you don’t already know it, then it’s a jolly good starting point. Beyond the fish soup, look out for beef daube in wine, cod stew, petits farcis stuffed vegetables roasted in the oven, tripe, and swordfish in a sweet and sour sauce, among very many others.

The one dish which might cause alarm is merda dé can. You will be suspicious of that word merda. You will be right. As Niçois friends will tell you, the phrase is local dialect for “dog-poo”. Happily, on the plate this translates into nothing more threatening than chard-flavoured gnocchi. (The French have a habit of giving raucous names to innocent dishes. In a nearby patisserie, there will certainly be creamy cakes called “pets de nonne” or “nuns’ farts”.)

Oh, and be sure to ask for red Varois wine from the barrel. They keep it in the cellar.
 

Ambience

Crowded and cramped but alive.

Service

Youthful, energetic and completely charming.

Location

Narrow street in the Old Town.

Price advice

There’s a dish of the day at about 10.80 euros. Around 22.80 - 28.50 euros should see you happily through a three-course meal.

Recommended for

  • Families with teenagers
  • Singles
  • People watching
  • Relaxation

Details