Food and drink
I usually forget the calories and have the omelette Arnold Bennett – an ethereal mix of egg, smoked haddock, cream and cheese and as suitable for supper as it is for breakfast. This is one of the few good places in town to serve Jewish classics such as salt beef, chopped liver and chicken soup with dumplings. There’s also a diverse choice of fish and seafood dishes, French mainstays (coq au vin, duck confit, snails bourguignon, salad nicoise) and retro desserts. The wine list is mostly French and starts at £19 a bottle.
It’s all buzz in this former bank and car showroom – but sometimes there’s too much of a good thing. I tend to turn up on spec rather than plan ahead, so rarely get a table in the main restaurant – and I’d rather go sit in the bar than be squeezed into the last tiny table by the front door.
The greeters are very good, but from there it tends to go downhill, with offhand, indifferent table service especially during peak times.
Bang at the centre of Piccadilly, near the Royal Academy, Fortnum and Mason, New Bond Street and Green Park.
It’s not cheap but there are price points to suit all pockets – cooked breakfasts range from £4.75 to £60 (for a caviar omelette); you can have a simple sandwich (£5.50-£11.75) or fillet de boeuf au poivre for £24.75.
- Business travellers
- Families with teenagers
- Mature travellers
- People watching
- Special occasions
- Design and architecture