Food and drink
The dim sum, especially the cheung fun, are usually faultless. It’s a great place to branch out from custard tarts - dim sum sweets include my favourite black sesame paste dumplings rolled in peanuts, and steamed buns filled with custard or lotus bean paste. Chef’s specialities on the à la carte menu include rarely-seen dishes such as oyster and tofu hotpot, and a satisfyingly tender stewed pork belly with preserved cabbage.
The lacquered screens and murals of flying geese have become a trademark and bring a sense of 1930s glamour to the main dining room. It’s usually very busy, with queues forming for dim sum soon after opening.
Variable, but the lunch service is particularly hard work, and at least they’re knowledgeable.
A busy west London street with plenty of competing restaurants.
You can eat very cheaply from the dim sum menu at lunchtimes, with plates ranging from £2.30-£5 each. Main courses start at £7.50.
Royal China’s Docklands branch, overlooking the Thames, is one of the better places to eat in Canary Wharf; the Baker Street branch is useful for Marylebone too, and if you’re looking for a more sophisticated experience, try Royal China Club on the same street – see website for details.
- Business travellers
- Families with teenagers
- Mature travellers
- Design and architecture