Food and drink
There’s no denying the food is very good – consistency is a point of pride – but it’s quite classic, mostly French, and I often long for something more interesting. The bisque-poached ravioli of lobster, langoustine and salmon with lemongrass and chervil velouté is a signature dish first-timers should certainly try if ordering à la carte. On the set lunch menu I like the quail and mushroom pithivier (a little pie) with salad of endive, apple, walnuts and celeriac, and rum baba.
Serene tones of cream and oyster, with spacious and well-spaced tables.
Among the very best in London, once you’re past the booking stage.
Royal Hospital Road is in deepest Chelsea, a taxi ride from Victoria or Sloane Square stations.
The set lunch is £45 for three courses (à la carte is literally twice as much) but you’ll have to be diligent to stick to it – and who wants to refuse niceties such as aperitifs, a decent bottle of wine, and coffee and chocs afterwards? They can easily add another £70 to the bill.
There was a time when, overall, the branch at Claridge’s was the more appealing restaurant, but now its main advantage is simply location. Gordon Ramsay Holdings also runs several other restaurants throughout London – see website for details.
- Business travellers
- Mature travellers
- Special occasions