Food and drink
There are more dishes on offer than is considered fashionable these days, but Racine’s sense of bounty and good, old fashioned choice are as appetizing as the ballotine, Bayonne ham and côte de boeuf. Classic sauces feature throughout – not just béarnaise and tartare, but ravigote and bourride. Fish gets a good showing, as do proteins such as guinea fowl, rabbit and veal. Offal lovers may find sweetbreads, calf’s brains in black butter, and tête de veau but anyone simply wanting a steak (sourced from nearby O’Shea’s butchers) will be easily pleased too. I’m not normally a fan of mont blanc – that rich yet sugary mix of chestnut purée, meringue and chocolate sauce – but Racine’s is a showstopper to rival le cancan. Surprisingly, this resolutely French establishment entertains wines from around the globe…
Behind the burgundy curtain is a simple room lined with banquettes and mirrors. The patina suggests it’s been here forever but it’s not even ten years old yet.
Excellent (welcoming, friendly, efficient) and they seem to know it, charging 14.5 per cent service.
Opposite Holy Trinity Brompton, great for posh shops and the museums of South Kensington.
Chef-patron Harris works hard to make the prix fixe proper good value – £15.50 for two courses, £17.75 for three – so don’t hesitate to try. Otherwise à la carte mains are £15.50-£29.75, and wines start at £20 a bottle.
- Business travellers
- Culture vultures
- Special occasions