Paramount

Address: 32nd Floor, Centrepoint, 101-103 New Oxford Street, London, WC1A 1DD, United Kingdom
Telephone: 020 7420 2900

- Mid-range

4.3

Meals served with 360° views from the top of an office block rightfully called Centrepoint.

I love the broad views from this newish spot, originally intended as a private members’ club but now open to the public. It’s a fabulous way to see how the various parts of London jigsaw together, and the while the food’s premium-priced to match the panorama, it’s not stratospheric. If you’d prefer haute cuisine on high, Galvin at Windows (in the Park Lane Hilton. www.galvinatwindows.com) and Rhodes 24 (in Tower 42 in the City, www.rhodes24.co.uk) are extremely good.

Food and drink
3.7
90%
Service
4
90%
Food and drink
3.7
90%
Value for money
3.9
90%
Ambience
4.2
90%
Location
4.5
90%

Food and drink

A typical modern European style with something for everybody: rib-eye steak with goose fat chips and béarnaise stand alongside the likes of sea bass with gnocchi, fennel, samphire and caviar cream. I liked the light Thai spicing on a dish of perfectly cooked monkfish with saffron risotto and crab spring rolls, and the sticky mushroom gravy that accompanied a top-notch steak and ale pie. Espresso crème brûlée was well-judged too. At brunch, the terrific bloody marys served in chilli-salt-rusted glasses outclassed the blueberry pancakes.

Ambience

Tom Dixon designed it – as you might guess from the prolific use of copper – and the result is stylishly cosy, all the better to help you relax and enjoy the view. Upstairs the champagne bar is in something of a square corridor but nicely intimate as a consequence.

Service

The waiters are chatty, and knowledgeable about their wines.

Location

A 1960s office block on a major traffic intersection, but it’s worth persevering through the higgledy-piggledy pedestrian crossings and office foyer. More positively, it’s where Soho and Fitrovia meet Bloomsbury and Covent Garden.

Price advice

Come just for breakfast if you want to enjoy the view on a budget: boiled egg and soldiers is £3.50, haggis with fried duck egg £9, full English £12. Otherwise expect to pay £8.50-£13.50 for starters and £14.50-£25 for mains. Wines start at £21 a bottle and cocktails are £6-£11.

Recommended for

  • Business travellers
  • Couples
  • Families with teenagers
  • Honeymooners
  • Stag / hen parties
  • Great views / scenery
  • Shopping
  • Special occasions
  • Design and architecture

Details