Food and drink
Low-carb dieters beware: a bodacious bread basket, crammed with intriguing varieties, comes with a glass of warm own-made grissini on the side, and the dishes of pasta and feather-light gnocchi are superb - I usually choose them as a starter over the healthy salads such as carrot and baby leaves with bottarga. My favourite main is nasello in scabeccio (vinegary steamed hake with garlic, fennel and parsley salad) but the meat cookery is very good too and includes specialities such as partridge and calf’s kidneys alongside the expected beef, lamb and pork. Some of the desserts are a bit tricksy in conception; traditionalists should opt for tart of the day, tiramisu or ice-cream.
The room has a slightly louche edge with sensuous, seventies-inspired booth seating, etched glass, convex mirrors, and wood laminate partitions.
Professional but often lacks warmth, especially when booking. To be honest, trying to book here usually makes me cross.
A couple of blocks from Oxford Street, Selfridges and Marble Arch, but not in the groovy centre of Marylebone.
A meal for two can easily hit £120 but the good news is that wines start at just £12 a bottle.
- Business travellers
- Families with teenagers
- Mature travellers
- People watching
- Special occasions