Food and drink
Thankfully the menu’s not the caricature it might have been. Yes, there’s cassoulet (Thursday on the plats du jour), fish soup, and steak tartare with frites, but also Herefordshire snail and bacon pie and a wonderfully rugged belly of pork with lentils and autumns veg. Do try the Paris brest filled with praline cream for pudding: it’s piled with toasted almonds and manages to be rich and creamy as well as light and crunchy. I have to say I’m a little disappointed they don’t do breakfast, though you can get afternoon tea. The wine list is excellent and offers almost everything by carafe as well as bottle.
It’s cavernous, and the last tenant was a contemporary pub chain, so no surprise the shiny new brasserie décor feels a little corporate and off-the-peg. Fortunately the tiled floor, copper bar and elegant linens add some welcome character.
Delightful and charming, for the most part.
Really handy for Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery, Charing Cross and the south side of Covent Garden.
Choose carefully and a three-course meal could cost under £25 without you resorting to the £15.50 pre-theatre deal. Equally you could blow £23.95 on a main course of monkfish alone. Desserts at £5.50 are great value for these times; wines are even better, starting at £14.50 for a 750ml bottle.
The same team is behind Soho’s [node:168205] and Mayfair’s Wild Honey, but this is a notably different and more ambitious operation.
- Business travellers
- Culture vultures
- Families with teenagers
- People watching