Food and drink
I’m not suggesting this keeps him awake at night, but Michel Roux Jnr and I have very different ideas on what is visually appealing. For me, even the contemporary dishes here look a bit 1989 and it’s the retro-chic classics that are most successful: cheese soufflé cooked on double cream; artichoke filled with foie gras, truffles and chicken mousse; duck pot-au-feu; roast veal with creamed morel mushroom sauce and mashed potato. To finish, whatever’s chocolate is always tempting but I can never pass up the dessert soufflés, including omelette Rothschild flavoured with apricot and Cointreau, and hot passion fruit soufflé with white chocolate ice-cream – sheer heaven.
A genteel, moneyed crowd (which may even include royalty) is joined by couples out for a special occasion – the result is a buzzing formality.
State of the art, complete with silver cloches, twin sister maitre d’s and plenty of ceremony in the wine presentation.
In the heart of Mayfair – take a taxi.
Undeniably expensive in the evening (the menu exceptionnel is £96.40 per person, or £152.60 with matching wines), but Le Gavroche’s set lunch is famously good value at £48.90 per head for a meal including three courses, mineral water, coffee and petits fours, and a half bottle of wine.
- Business travellers
- Mature travellers
- Special occasions