Food and drink
The menu’s an appealing read of good seasonal British produce put together in simple combinations. Take my beautifully juicy braised veal with fennel: there was some chopped parsley and, as it turned out, unnecessary aioli but otherwise braised veal and fennel was exactly what it was. Best dish was a surprising starter of twice-cooked lamb breast, topped with green beans, fresh mint and fried sweetbreads. The menu was not as heavy on offal as Googling may have you believe, rather there was plenty of fish (grey mullet, skate, mackerel, plaice), seasonal game (quail, pigeon, mallard, venison), and a pumpkin and potato pie for the vegetarians. The wine list is European with an impressive 14 varieties available by the 500ml carafe and some excellent Portuguese bottles serving as the house wines. Beers include London’s Meantime ales.
I prefer it to St John. The room is far softer and more romantic than it appears in photographs, with a subtle floral mural on the rear wall, cosy booths, and large circular skylight. Custom tends to be casually sophisticated, and Sunday lunchtimes are family-oriented.
Experienced, confident and friendly. We had to enquire about a missing side dish but otherwise staff were note-perfect and helpful.
A mainly residential area on the Bayswater side of Notting Hill, not far from the shops of Westbourne Grove.
Expect to pay £30-£35 a head without drinks when going à la carte (you’d be charged that much for food half as good in several places around these parts). The set lunch (weekdays only) offers a choice of three dishes per course, at £13 for two courses and £15.50 for three. There’s also an Express lunch, which is a set main course with glass of house wine and coffee for £9.50.
- Business travellers
- Families with teenagers
- Mature travellers
- People watching
- Design and architecture