Food and drink
Mornings see a mix of City workers, lone diners wielding laptops and overnight guests enjoying Guinness, champagne and bloody marys over plates of sausages, bacon and eggs. I love the sense of conspirational fun at this time. Things get crowded in the evenings, but not everyone stays to eat. The pies (steak, kidney and oyster pie, fish pie, rabbit and cider) are justly famous, and there are some nice light supper dishes such as welsh rarebit and ham toastie with fried duck egg. First-rate beers from small independent breweries help smooth over any blips in the cooking – my favourite is the organic raspberry beer from Samuel Smith.
Old world charm: a row of gleaming pewter tankards hangs from the mahogany bar, walls are covered with ornate wallpapers and framed black and white photographs, and a rear snug suggests clandestine meetings.
Friendly and knowledgeable but often pressed – it’s a popular spot.
On a lively cul de sac off Smithfield market, a short walk from Farringdon station or St Paul’s.
You probably won’t want more than two courses: mains are £10.95-£16.95, a side of goose fat chips £3 and desserts £5.50 each.
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