Bistrot Bruno Loubet

Address: St John's Square, 86-88 Clerkenwell Road, London, EC1M 5RJ, United Kingdom
Telephone: 020 7324 4455

- Mid-range

4

Finally the cool Zetter hotel has a restaurant that’s a worthy destination in its own right.

Bruno Loubet was a high-profile chef in London during the 1990s; having decamped to Australia for eight years, he’s now back in the UK wowing everyone with this restaurant and bar in the hip [node:166803] hotel.

Food and drink
4.2
90%
Service
3.9
90%
Food and drink
4.2
90%
Value for money
4
90%
Ambience
4.8
90%
Location
3.8
90%

Food and drink

The cooking is recognisably French, yet inventive. There’s boudin blanc and bouillabaisse, confit and crépinette. My braised lamb shank was taken off the bone and served in a neat ball with a ‘moussaka’ tian of potato, aubergine and courgette on the other side of the plate. A starter of meatballs, snails and earthy mushroom mousse came smothered in herb-fragrant tomato sauce. Loubet’s years in Queensland are saluted in dishes such as passionfruit self-saucing pudding (though there actually wasn’t enough sauce in it). But there’s no favouring Australia when it comes to the wine list, which is roughly half French and half international, with house wines coming from the Languedoc. We loved the aperitifs made with Loubet’s home-made infusions.

Ambience

More stylish than London’s current crop of brasserie Français wannabes.

Service

The welcome was exceptionally warm, and the kitchen produced dishes swiftly, but we were just finishing our starters when the aperitifs arrived…

Location

On the most genteel corner of Clerkenwell.

Price advice

Expect to pay around £32 per head for three courses. You can keep costs in check by economizing on wines: there are several offered by the glass and two sizes of carafe. Or come for breakfast when (among many dishes) a full English is £9.50, and emmenthal and herb omelette £7.50.

Recommended for

  • Business travellers
  • Couples
  • Foodies
  • Honeymooners
  • Mature travellers
  • People watching
  • Romance
  • Special occasions
  • Trendiness

Details