Food and drink
This is the place to sample textbook renditions of classics such as ribollita, pasta e fagioli, panzanella (a salad made with day-old bread), lesso rifatto con le cipolle (an oniony beef stew) and baccalà (salt cod). If you haven’t yet had a bistecca alla fiorentina, order it here; the one I had recently was magnificent. More unusual choices include roasted pig’s liver (rather you than me) and polpettone in umido, Florentine meat loaf which is delicious. The wine list (all-Tuscan with the exception of a small selection of Barolo plus a few whites) covers the best of what this region has to offer at near enoteca prices; this is one of those places where you can afford a special bottle to go with your bistecca.
Bistecca alla fiorentina accompanied by fagioli (white cannellini beans) topped with a generous swizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
As was the norm once upon a time, the restaurant is fronted by a grocer’s shop and bar where the locals drop in for a quick coffee and chat or to buy their cigarettes and do a bit of shopping. Tables are laid in a series of rustic rooms where the retro décor and atmosphere have remained intact. This place is a local legend and packs out at lunchtimes with all sorts from lorry drivers (it’s near the autostrada exit) to business folk; on Friday evenings it fills with groups of friends ordering mountains of foods. Tourists are about as common as a wet day in the Sahara, and that’s why I like it.
It's a bit gruff and rushed at times, but that’s typical Florentine style. If you need advice about wine, Andrea is a knowledgeable and helpful sommelier.
On the busy main road that leads west out of Florence, it's near the entrance to the A11 autostrada and Peretola airport. It’s a 20-minute ride on the number 35 bus from the station.
This is a place to go the whole hog; four courses will come in at less than 30 euros per head without wine.
- Business travellers
- Seasoned travellers
- Escaping the crowds
- No fuss