Food and drink
The chef Paul Cunningham's roots in hearty English cooking are clear in his menus - tried and tested rustic flavours and dishes are given intensity and refinement, but present too are French, Italian and Asian influences,
The menus change with the season but the recipes roam globally. The eel teriyaki with miso pickled daikon or the mallard with truffle and boudin were both good. Desserts are pleasing sticky and English - dark chocolate caramel with rosemary or lemon curd and caramel.
There's a terrific buzz here, something to do with being in the heart of Tivoli and in the spacious, bright glasshouse, which is pleasingly light even in midwinter. The decor is vibrant reflecting the unstuffy attitude of the staff here.
You're likely to chat with the kitchen staff as much as you are with the front of house staff here. It's all very friendly and you feel like you're being treated as indiviudal diners rather than table numbers.
Right in the heart of Tivoli, the setting is magical.
It's not cheap. Expect lunch to cost around 500 krone, the full tasting menu to start from 895 krone and the same again for the matched wine menu.
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