The world is his lobster: crustaceans and much else besides, for the discerning diner.
In a little over a year at the helm, Dominique Guicherd has hauled Le Cosi into the front-rank of Cannes cuisine. It’s another one in the eye for those wiseacres who claim that good restaurants and tourist zones don’t mix. Le Cosi is on Rue du Suquet, the tight-packed tiny street winding up through the old town.
As such, the said street is thick with visitors - and restaurants, which are routinely dismissed as tourist traps. If you’ve read others of the reviews in this section, you’ll know it’s a subject which annoys me – so I’ll not bang on about it yet again. Suffice it to say that the wiseacres are wrong, there are some cracking restaurants in this district, and Le Cosi is assuredly one of them.
Lyonnais M. Guicherd knows his trade. He’s worked at some of the leading establishments in France – and now brings that experience to this delightful little place.
There’s a terrace outside – perfect for surveying your fellow visitors amble past. Inside, beams, red ochre walls and wrought iron seats give the different rooms a vaguely Spanish feel. White columns and arches add a classical touch – which is what you find in the cooking, too, albeit with a contemporary flourish.
Try, for instance, the sea-bass fillet with vegetables in truffle oil, or the chicken supreme stuffed with tapenade and roasted with garlic. Or, notably, the lobster ragout with a risotto of wild mushrooms and summer truffles. This is a speciality, starring on a menu of its own. You will wander out into the evening (or the afternoon), happy as a sand-boy to have been lured into this particular tourist trap.