Small but perfectly formed: one of the best little bistros in town.
And when I say ‘small’, I mean almost ‘hole-in-the-wall’. The place can take no more than 20 diners; the kitchen is the size of a chip pan. Chef Bruno Gensdarme downsized to this nano-kingdom a couple of years ago, in his early 50s, after a career in some smart spots in Paris.
He’s turned it into a point of reference on the Cannes culinary map by keeping things simple, fresh and relatively inexpensive. A real little bistro, in short, and not without contemporary style. It has warm-toned walls, lamps of drift-wood and mirrors which turn into menus.
The menus, in turn, are short and sharp – and reflective of what M.Gensdarme has been able to get hold of that morning at the nearby market. Processed through his imagination, this produce transforms into dishes like sauté of veal with polenta, sea-bass fillet with candied lemons or sea-bream with Niçois courgettes. The food is, in short, both reliable and interesting – and served by M. Gensdarme’s son-in-law. It’s a very difficult place not to like.