Food and drink
One of the things I like about a menu degustación is that you get to try so many different flavours, and occasionally re-visit some from the past that you weren’t particularly overwhelmed with elsewhere. I’ve never been a big fan of croquettas, but this one struck the right note, with a wonderfully deep flavour of red prawn, which I am a fan of, and a crispy without being crunchy exterior. The foie with caramelised onions and a Moscatel gelatin, tiny squares of reduced wine that looked like beautifully tinted marmalade, was excellent, especially when eaten with the wonderful selection of home-made breads. The samplings went on and on…sea bass with creamy garlic ice-cream and arroz meloso, a ‘soggy’ rice cooked in a stock made from the heads of red prawns – superb – Galician sirloin steak with wild mushrooms and a moscatel reduction on a bed of potatoes and tiny onion chips, the meat lustrously deep red on the inside and seared dark brown outside – perfectly done. I’ve never had a pudding that was also a musical accompaniment, but the Explosion de Citricos Valencianos, was a chilled jelly of orange, lemon and grapefruit that had something within it that popped as you ate it. The citric semi-tartness was wonderfully offset by a creamy vanilla ice-cream. I tried a Chardonnay from Bodegas Enrique Mendoza, not a twenty-minute drive from the restaurant, and one of the best young producers in Spain, and a red, Peña Cadiella, from Vins de Comtat Cocentaina, both excellent.
The restaurant has some of the kitschest chairs I’ve come across, but they took the edge off the restaurant being too ‘posh’. It’s small enough to be cosy, but big enough so that you can feel part of an elegant dining experience. The wonderful views over the bay to the mountains behind Benidorm add impact; you could almost feel that you are dining in a private salon on a fancy yacht.
Very attentive, and the waiters will explain your dishes if you would like them to. The single white glove – a la Michael Jackson – amused me when it was put on each time the silver was changed.
Beside the mirador in Benidorm old town.
- Special occasions