Food and drink
The menu adds a creatively luxe twist to Beijing staples – I love the goose liver served in shaobing (rustic sesame buns) with a fruity chutney dip. Tradition rules when it comes to head chef Jin’s meticulously carved Peking duck, and eating is a strict three-stage process: skin in sugar, breast meat with spring onion, and finishing with pancakes stuffed with leg meat, skin, veggies and minced garlic. Jin told me the trick is to roll the pancakes small enough to eat them in one mouthful. If you’ve any room left, finish with rich chocolate ice-cream blended with wu liang ye, a local firewater.
Comfortingly bustling and busy, the compact dining room is usually packed to the rafters with suited business types and tourists taking snaps of the live food theatre.
When folks complain to me about brusque service here I reassure them that it’s all part of the authentic Beijing experience. Actually I’ve never had cause to complain – I’m too busy watching the chefs.
On the first floor of the Grand Hyatt hotel in Wangfujing.
Expensive, especially after the 15% service charge is tacked on to the bill. But Beijing’s esteemed signature is a foodie experience worth shelling out for.
- Business travellers
- People watching
- Special occasions