Food and drink
Dadong’s “super-lean” roast duck is sold on the claim that longer cooking times render off more of the fat, resulting in a healthier dish. I doubt this, but it’s certainly delicious, and seems less oily that the likes of Quanjude. More recently, showy, molecular-style dishes have become big draws as Dadong restlessly expands his technical repertoire. I’ve had some memorable banquets here that featured wafers of kobe beef blowtorched at the table, braised sea cucumber (delicious, honest) and desserts bubbling over with dry ice.
The flamboyant, brightly-lit dining room is rarely less than heaving with locals and out-of-towners dipping amber shards of duck skin in sugar and rolling overstuffed pancakes.
Service is neat and tidy, with absolutely no waiting on ceremony. At very busy times, slip-ups can occur (not literally).
This branch, house in a restored Ming Dynasty era granary, is the most central, located just outside Dongsishitiao subway station (line 2).
Booking is essential if you don’t want to join the queues. Like most Chinese restaurants, you generally get more for your money if you come in a group.
The original branch beside the 3rd Ring Road gets very overrun with tourists, whilst the branch on Jinbao Jie, in a glitzy shopping mall, is the most sleek and contemporary.
- Families with teenagers
- First-time travellers