Food and drink
High-quality produce such as fish from St Mawes, local rapeseed oil, meat and cheese are all used on the menu and helped earn them three AA Rosettes. I didn’t understand half of the beignets, ribbons, velouté and fondants featured, but staff are happy to explain. It sounds fussy, but the actual food is very simple – quality ingredients shout loud for themselves and the small portions are perfectly presented and taste sensational. The quirky wine list (split into categories like ‘full rich, ripe and toasty’ and ‘mouthwatering sweet and sour reds’), won them Wine List of the Year in the 2011 Good Food Guide.
Menus change seasonally, but I loved the subtly crunchy seaside taste of the risotto of Cornish cock crab with its own velouté and tempura of soft shelled crab. For mains the pan-fried potato gnocchi, vine tomato fondue with spring vegetables and parmesan cream is a deliciously light take on a traditionally stodgy food. I’ll normally opt for anything with chocolate in it, so I loved the dark chocolate and kirsch delice with fresh cherries and Chantilly cream.
Downstairs, underneath [node:170001], the dining room has a dark and brooding colour scheme, which combined with the lack of natural light gives it a certain simmering, sexy moodiness – it‘s not gloomy though and is perfect for a hushed special date.
Polite and professional – not overly fussy, but there’s good attention to detail and glasses are kept well topped up.
Underneath The Queensberry Hotel on Russel Street, near the Circus and Royal Crescent.
Set lunches cost £16 for two courses or £19.50 for three, which is great value as at dinnertime a starter will set you back around £13.50, a main from £16.50 up and a dessert £9.25.
Tables to book
Request a table in the lower dining room for more privacy, or a booth at the side – the table in the middle of the room can make you feel a bit self-conscious as everyone else sits around you.
- Seasoned travellers
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