Food and drink
Barbarigou, who has her own TV show and several best-selling cookbooks, still cooks here most nights. Billy Zane, Pierce Brosnan, Carla Bruni, and plenty of Greek celebrities and socialites clamour for her contemporary spin on seafood. Try baked chickpeas with taramosalata, kritharaki (orzo) with langoustines, and catch of the day en papilotte. Desserts are equally sophisticated, including the hugely popular bougatsa (warm and crisp custard pie). I prefer the mandarin sorbet – a refreshing palate cleanser after the rich seafood dishes. It’s a great companion to the complementary shots of Masticha liqueur that are offered as a digestif.
Vegetable side dishes are just as exciting as the mains. I love Argyro's signature salad of roasted red peppers, aubergines, onions and courgettes topped with creamy sheep’s cheese, and fava with caramelized onions, capers and anchovies.
With so many bigwigs packed into the small cream and lime green dining room, there’s a certain tension in the air. The mood can be a little uptight, which is mainly down to the harried staff and tight-lipped manager.
Service is the only thing that lets this place down. The waiting staff has attitude, bordering on rudeness. You’ll have to be extra patient at peak times, as there never seem to be enough staff to manage the dinner rush.
On a quiet residential street in the foothills of Mount Lycabettus. The posh but off-piste location reflects the local clientele. The whole street smells deliciously of orange blossom in spring.
At least €60 a head
Tables to book
On balmy nights, ask for one of the pavement tables on Voukourestiou – the Parthenon glimmers in the distance.
- Business travellers
- Mature travellers
- Celebrity spotting