Food and drink
The mix-and-match menu draws on influences from all around the globe to brilliant effect: sizzling cheese with lemon marmalade and ginger, beef carpaccio with pickled wasabi, and wafer-thin slices of jamon with Pedro Jimenez sherry jelly and green apple cream (a dish clearly inspired by Rowley Leigh’s Le Café Anglais). There’s a huge selection of cheese and charcuterie, carefully sourced from all over Greece, to accompany a bottle of wine from the impressive international list.
The ponzu-infused mackerel, scorched with a blowtorch at your table, is a showstopper. Desserts are decadent and theatrical: I’m obsessed with the rich chocolate ganache served with raspberry sorbet.
Casually showy. All grey concrete and pale wood, the décor is minimalist with a modern edge. Closely packed tables and limited covers create a congenial mood. One wall is lined with eclectic ingredients from Cretan olive oil to Japanese chilli sauce. The open kitchen creates a talking point for diners perched at the bar. You might smell of food when you leave, but at least you won’t smell of smoke; commendably, P Box has upheld the smoking ban that’s been half-heartedly enforced by the Greek government, so the handful of tables outside are always in demand among the chain-smoking clientele.
Stylish, youthful waiters weave in and out of the tables without losing their cool. The Swedish sommelier is passionate without being intimidating.
Athenians will go anywhere to try Peskias’ inventive dishes – even suburban Kifissia. Locals are delighted their affluent neighbourhood has finally scored a hip place to see and be seen. It’s been such a smash hit that a downtown offshoot is opening at [node:171110] in Kolonaki in December 2010.
What you spend will depend on what – and how much – you order. Allow €50 a head for a full-blown feast.
Tables to book
The best seats are at the concrete bar framing the tiny open kitchen, where you can grill the chefs and watch them create each elegant dish before you savour it.
- Business travellers
- People watching