To Kentrikon

Address: Kolokotroni 3, Syntagma, Athens, 10562, Greece
Telephone: +30 210 323 2482

- Mid-range

4.4

Regional specialties at a reassuringly old-fashioned lunch spot.

I’m a sucker for places that have been around forever. In Athens, historic restaurants are surprisingly scarce considering the city’s long history. This stalwart has been around for decades and wears it very well. The menu goes on forever too, a checklist of classic dishes from around the county. I’ve never had a bad meal here, and I’m confident that I never will.

Food and drink
4.4
90%
Service
4.6
90%
Food and drink
4.4
90%
Value for money
4.6
90%
Ambience
4.4
90%
Location
4.4
90%

Food and drink

This is a good spot to sample regional specialties like sofrito (veal steak in wine sauce) from Corfu, or lamb with mastello cheese from Sifnos. There’s a huge array of ladera (literally ‘dishes cooked in oil’). But don’t worry: nothing is overly greasy. 

Recommended dishes

I usually go for fresh fish roasted with tomato, garlic and oregano, along with steamed vegetables simply dressed in delicious olive oil. Or a comforting chickpea stew or bean soup in the winter.

Ambience

A black-and-white movie set circa 1960. Vintage prints of Athenian landmarks hang above the wood-panelled walls. Loyal regulars range from MPs to local shopkeepers. It’s very popular for discreet business lunches.

Service

Waiters are fast and friendly. And they never lose their cool, even in the hectic lunch rush.

 

Location

As central as its name suggests. An oasis of calm screened from the screaming traffic of Stadiou Street. Hidden in an arcade off Kolokotroni Street, most people pass it by without realising what they’re missing.

Price advice

Great value. About €20 a head.

Tables to book

It gets very busy at midday, but you’ll probably find a seat in the spacious dining room without booking.

 

Recommended for

  • Business travellers
  • Families with teenagers
  • Families with younger children
  • First-time travellers
  • Mature travellers
  • Relaxation
  • History

Details