Cucina Povera

Address: Eforionos 13, Pangrati, Athens, 11635, Greece
Telephone: +30 210 7566 008

- Mid-range

4.3

Hip and happy Mediterranean with an outstanding wine cellar.

Sommelier Yiannis Kaimenakis and chef Kleomenis Zournatzis met at the late, great 48 restaurant. But while 48 was astronomically expensive and incredibly pretentious, Cucina Povera is great value for money and casually cosy. Thanks to Kaimenakis’ contagious enthusiasm, I come here often not only to try, but also to learn about different wines.

Food and drink
4.1
90%
Service
4.4
90%
Food and drink
4.1
90%
Value for money
4.6
90%
Ambience
4.6
90%
Location
4.2
90%

Food and drink

The modern Mediterranean menu – which changes almost daily and is printed on plain paper tablemats – is hit and miss. Typical (stand-out) dishes would be fresh strozzapretti with pumpkin and pancetta, cuttlefish and spinach stew, and strawberry millefeuille. Even if some dishes disappoint, you won’t regret sampling some amazing wines at really competitive prices.

Recommended dishes

Seasonal risottos, pastas, and refreshing salads are generally very good.

Ambience

Cheerful, casual and welcoming. The split-level space, with sliding doors that open up in summer, is all blonde wood and recycled wine crates. Tables, adorned with miniature basil plants in old tomato puree tins, spill out onto the pedestrian street in warm weather. The floor-to-ceiling wine cellar is encased in glass, so you can watch the tireless sommelier at work.

Service

Friendly and informal; usually dressed in “Terroirista” t-shirts.

Location

The tiny pedestrian street in residential Pangrati is not easy to locate. It’s only a few blocks from the ancient Panathinaiko stadium. What should be a low-key neighbourhood restaurant has developed a loyal following from all over town.

Price advice

 Average €25 per person, without wine. But you could really go crazy with the wine, sherry, and port.

Tables to book

Avoid the mezzanine – you’ll feel you’re missing out on the action.

Recommended for

  • Business travellers
  • Couples
  • Families with teenagers
  • Relaxation
  • Romance
  • Trendiness

Details