Food and drink
Products are flown in daily from Crete to ensure authenticity. Meat is all free range and the ingredients are sourced from small farms. Owner Stavros Theodorakis’ mum still cooks many of her signature dishes such as gamopilafo (literally, wedding pilaf – a satisfyingly rich lamb and chicken risotto). Alatsi means salt in the Cretan dialect. Rock salt is used liberally and tsikoudia (the local equivalent of grappa) flows freely.
Apaki (smoked pork) with pita bread, gruyere and grape must is a good example of the no-nonsense but delicious specialties. The baked chickpeas with bitter orange and rosemary are very good. The bougatsa (custard pie) flown in from Iordanis in Chania daily, has legions of devoted fans.
The bright, modern space isn’t remotely folksy or rustic. Owned by an influential TV journalist, it’s popular with an older crowd of politicos and journalists.
Enthusiastic, youthful, and efficient. Owner Stavros Theodorakis is still there most nights, meeting and greeting the movers and shakers.
An unlikely backstreet just behind the Hilton Hotel. Central but definitely off-Broadway.
Around €25 a head. Generous appetisers are between €7.5 and 9.5; mains €14.5; desserts €6.
Tables to book
The two large tables on the mezzanine are popular for privacy.
- Business travellers
- Families with teenagers
- Celebrity spotting
- People watching