Towards the northern end of the Cannaregio canal in the district of the same name, Ca’ Dogaressa is not far from the station yet sufficiently off the beaten tourist track to feel rather special. You’re more likely to find locals strolling and chatting on the wide canal-side pavement, where a few kosher shops and restaurants remind you that the Ghetto is close by. The major sites are a half-hour hike or a vaporetto ride away. But Cannaregio is a hive of evening activity: this is where I usually head for a night out with friends.
Though they’re firmly in the tradition of old-fashioned Venetian hotel rooms, with Murano glass chandeliers and brocade, the rooms at Ca’ Dogaressa are by no means as heavy and fussy as elsewhere. The front rooms especially, with their open vistas across the wide Cannaregio canal, have a really bright and airy feel: my favourite is the delightful junior suite with its three large windows – of course, you get the noises of passing vaporetti and veneziani, but that’s all part of the experience. Bathrooms are neat and modern, and the beds are firm and very comfortable. Some back rooms can be a little cramped. If you’ve left your computer at home and can’t go another day without checking your email, they’ll put a laptop in your room, free of charge.
The view over Venice’s rooftops from the little top-floor terrace is delightful.
Eating and drinking
Whenever the weather permits, breakfast tables are set out by the Cannaregio canal; otherwise guests can opt for the adequately stocked buffet in the little breakfast room, or breakfast in bed. There’s no restaurant, but staff are only too happy to provide hot and cold drinks through the day.
One of Ca’ Dogaressa’s most endearing features for me is the care lavished on the place – and on guests – by the Antenori family.
Who stays there
Women travelling alone would feel utterly safe in this kindly family atmosphere. But Ca’ Dogaressa appeals to any travellers who seek a Venetian feel combined with modern comforts, and who aren’t fussed about not being right in the centre.
Low season is a good time to enjoy Ca’ Dogaressa’s canal-facing junior suite when prices dip.
- High-Speed Internet
- Room Service
- Culture vultures
- Families with teenagers
- Families with younger children
Pros & Cons
- Well-priced given the amenities
- Welcoming and charming
- Not right in the centre