In the centre of Spilia village, 4km off the main highway, just north of the Troödos watershed, a notably scenic area with abundant hiking and mountain-biking opportunities.
These were overhauled in 2009, emerging with blonde-pine ceilings and furniture, pileless carpets, small flat-screen TVs and plenty of storage. From the five top-floor ones, there are sweeping balcony views of the bird-filled valley below. Many rooms will fit a couple and a small child. Number 3 is the most romantic (and charged accordingly), with a double canopy bed and two windows. Bathrooms remain simple, with shower curtains.
Just a top-floor lounge, an indoor breakfast area and a terrace-garden out back.
Eating and drinking
Breakfast is at the hotel, but other meals are provided at the family’s Sama Restaurant literally three steps away, in a well-restored, two-storey stone house with strategically placed fireplaces and a front summer terrace. I’ve had my eye on this place for years but never managed to eat here until recently. That’s because they work to order – no bookings (on 99571112), probably no cooking – and are only likely to be open on spec Friday night to Sunday noon, when Nicosians up here on a whim grab any unreserved tables. It was worth the wait, as their set meze menu is probably the best in the Troödos: palpably fresh, varied starters, then a relay of mains including pastítsio (macaroni pie) and the best stuffed vegetables I’ve had in a while. Leave room for homemade dessert and traditional coffee made on a bed of hot sand (charged, like the good house wine, extra). Budget 22 euros for meat meze, 15 for vegetarian (requires advance notice) and a bit more for wine, so up to 30 euros per person all in.
None on the premises but there are dense networks of hiking trails literally a stone’s throw away – see for instance my featured walking loop under Things to Do – and dirt forestry roads for mountain-biking.
Judging from the restaurant, excellent.
Who stays there
A multinational clientele who don’t crave the bright lights, interested in outdoor sports and the nearby painted churches.
No variation across the year from 58 euros standard/70 euros superior doubles, and this tiny place is unlikely to ever appear on booking websites.
- Backpackers / Students
- Culture vultures
- Families with younger children
- Sporty types
- Great views / scenery
- Chilling out
- Nature / wildlife
Pros & Cons
- Outstanding restaurant
- Genuinely family atmosphere
- Hospital green walls in the rooms
- Tricky parking at peak season/weekend nights