A travel journalist for more than ten years, I have been writing about Denmark and Copenhagen ever since my first visit in 2000, writing Lonely Planet's Denmark Guide.
Copenhagen is an amazing city I keep coming back to not least because I have some very good friends there. There are many reasons to love Denmark. Despite its diminutive size (you can cycle across it in a morning) it's a hotspot for amazing food (including Noma - voted the world's best), an amazing sense of design, an incredible heritage, brilliant little bars and chic boutiques. The locals are a handsome bunch and the vibe is easy going.
Over the years I have nosed around most hotels in town, eaten at many of the restaurants and hung out in many of its bars. I also know the wider region around Copenhagen very well.
I have now worked on three editions of Denmark plus several editions of the Lonely Planet Scandinavian Europe and Europe on a Shoestring. I have also contributed to Time Out's Copenhagen guide and have written numerous features on Europe's most perfectly formed little capital city.
My favourite stroll - A wander along the harbour front between Nyhavn and the Little Mermaid takes in the Opera House, warships, cruise ships, parked-up gin palaces, historic dockside buildings, the fairytale Rosenborg castle and in the distance flickering wind turbines. It's wonderfully atmospheric and ends up beside the Little Mermaid statue (something of an anti-climax perhaps).
Where to be seen - Swish new cocktail bar 1105 is a dark, moody spot and the cocktails are the best in town.
Where to grab a coffee - Vinyl & Coffee is a supremely chilled out little cafe down a quiet Vesterbro side street, selling the latest hip cool indie albums on vinyl and spinning said releases on the decks beside the coffee machine. Most importantly of all the coffee is the best I've tasted in town.
Where to eat - You're really spoilt for choice in this foodie's playground, now officially home to the world's best restaurant, Noma. You won't get in, mind. So, try Relæ, home to some ex-Noma chefs busy developing their own amazing and usually successful gastronomic ideas.
Where to go for some peace and quiet - Kongens Have, the gardens beside Rosenborg castle are beautifully manicured and blissfully quiet. The perfect spot for a picnic.
What to shop for - Copenhagen is your town for original design, quirky one-offs and 'up-cycled' furniture. The city is thick with design talent, whether it's interiors, fashion or accessories you're after.
The best views - I still get a kick out of climbing Vor Frelsers Kirke near Christiania with its spire that winds to a dizzying finish right near the top and offers panoramic city views.
Don't leave without... riding through the streets on a bike. You can't come to the greatest cycling city in the world and not get on a bike. It's the best way to feel like a local. Bike hire is cheap, in some cases free, and you can cover lots of ground on its mostly very flat terrain.
My expert information
For the food...
Copenhagen now lays claim to having the world's best restaurant in Noma, but there's breadth and depth here too. The Danes have long since appreciated classical French cooking and marry it well with some amazing Nordic seafood and produce, garnering a constellation of stars from Michelin. An ever more confident generation of young chefs are refining and improving on classic Scandinavian methods, flavours and dishes to produce some startlingly good food.Read more...