Why Rotorua is hot, hot, hot

Our journey started in Auckland, where we hired a car and headed to the central North Island town of Rotorua. And never in all my dreams did I imagine such a place. Try to picture a land where lakes, mountain streams and waterfalls around you steam with the heat of geothermal activity. Where walkways around the outskirts of town are lined with bubbling, saucepan-sized springs, hot enough to poach an egg, and steam rises from hills and forests all around.

Even though I was expecting it to be good, it still took me totally by surprise. However impressive you think it's going to be, you can just double it and double it again. It kind of freaks you out at first. Steam even rises from the storm drains and cracks in the pavement in the middle of town. The one downside is that the whole place has that eggy smell of sulphur.

Geysers and craters

There is a geothermal hotspot that runs in a line southwest from the Bay of Plenty as far as Lake Taupo in central North Island, with Rotorua right in the middle. There are a few thermal parks sited all around Lake Rotorua, the major one being Wai-O-Tapu (meaning sacred waters) about 25km south of town, signposted off SH5 (open 8.30am-5pm; entry $30 adult, $10 child). That's where you'll find the Lady Knox Geyser, which erupts daily at exactly 10.15 am, sending hot water a good 30 feet into the air. Eruption is induced by a warden, who pours organic soap into the vent, breaking the surface tension in the water chamber below and activating the geyser.

That was really cool to see, though it is nothing compared to the show that the Waimangu Geyser, sited not too far away, put on in 1903, when it regularly erupted to heights of over 1,500 feet (higher than the Empire State Building) before becoming extinct in 1904. The valley surrounding this monumental geyser was created by a volcanic eruption and earthquake in 1886, and remains one of the most active volcanic districts in the world today.

Wai-O-Tapu was like being transported to another world – a very eerily atmospheric place. There are large smoking craters in the ground, chimney-sized steam vents and huge bubbling lakes stained unearthly colours by the volcanic minerals they contain. Wai-O-Tapu and other focal points of geothermal activity around Rotorua have been described as being the closest you can get to hell on earth. Indeed, one of the less well-known parks was actually named Hells Gate by writer George Bernard Shaw, who said, following his visit there, “I wish I had never seen the place; it reminds me too vividly of the fate theologists have promised me.” Hells Gate is 16km northeast of Rotorua on SH30. It is open 9am–8.30pm daily, and entry is $30 for the self-guided walk (spa treatments are extra).

Take to the water

There are, of course, hot pools that are safe to go and swim in but almost all are commercialised now, and most non-commercial ones are simply too hot (they can get up to 90°C on the surface, and much hotter deeper down). An exception that we found was probably my favourite out of all of them. It was a hot stream that the owner of our hostel in Rotorua told us about. To get to it, you turn off Tongariro Street down Spa Road when you get into Taupo. From Spa Road, turn left down County Avenue and park at the end. Follow the walkway signposted for the hot stream, and over the hill, just a short walk away, you'll find it cascading into the Waikato river from its hot spring in the hills above. The stream is free for all to go for a dip, and just the right temperature, too. The problem is, whilst the water in the stream is nice and warm, once you get out, the wind is freezing - and as we didn't really feel like getting hypothermia, we didn't actually go in.

A good thermal spa in Rotorua is the Polynesian Spa (1000 Hinemaru Street), boasting magnificent views over the lake from its outdoor pools. It was opened in 1886, and it is claimed that its mineral waters have healing properties. There are various spa treatments available there, and you can choose between the family pools, adult-only pools, private pools, or the very authentic-looking lake spa pools, right by the lake shore (prices range from $15 to $40 depending on which pool you want). The spa is open 6:30am-11pm daily, with treatments available from 9am to 9pm.

Lake Taupo is the largest lake in the southern hemisphere, and was formed as a result of the most violent volcanic eruption of the last 2,000 years, known as the Hatepe eruption. It happened around 180 AD, and at that time, New Zealand had never even seen a human being. But in Rome, writers noted a particularly vivid sunset on the eve of that eruption because of the huge amount of dust kicked up into the atmosphere. We drove around the lake, stopping occasionally to take in the fantastic views, and, of course, take some photos. I reckon this is the way to see New Zealand. Just hire a car and head for the horizon. Heaven or Hell? You be the judge.

Where to stay

We stayed at Crash Palace backpackers (1271 Hinemaru Street) during our time in Rotorua, and it was excellent. The owners and staff had a wealth of knowledge about the town and surrounding area, and couldn’t wait to share that knowledge with us. There is a free private car park, a spa in the back garden and even a pet Rabbit, what more could you want? Dorms sleeping six people cost from $20 per person per night.