Orvieto: a gem in central Italy only two hours from Rome

By Anthony Rhodes, a Travel Enthusiast

Read more on Orvieto.

Overall rating:3.7 out of 5 (based on 3 votes)
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Recommended for:
Cultural, Food and Drink, Short Break, Budget, Mid-range

Perched high on a massive volcanic rock, Umbria's Orvieto is a fine mediaeval city with enormous charm. It may be best known for its brilliant wines but many delights await the enterprising traveller

If you only have a couple of days to spare in central Italy, or a whole week to spend in a lovely hill-top town, then Orvieto is for you. It is easy to get to; less than a couple of hours from Rome’s Termini Railway Station, or a comfortable drive from Tuscany. Orvieto is a mediaeval city perched high on a massive outcrop of volcanic rock called tufa. This stronghold was first colonised by the Etruscans around 900 BC. Nowadays the narrow streets and piazzas attract those discerning travellers who seek a less crowded environment than the usual tourist towns.

Where to stay

Orvieto has plenty of places to stay, from hotels to modest guest houses. Among the most charming is the B&B Palazzo del Cardinale in Via Malabranda. We chose the panoramic apartment, good value from 75 euros a day, smaller rooms are available from 60 euros, including breakfast. The owner, Valeria, is helpful and friendly and will happily give sightseeing advice and help with restaurant bookings. For breakfast we were offered scrambled eggs, croissants, rolls and a choice of delicious home-made marmalade and jams. This feast was all served in a beautiful Renaissance dining room which has been in Valeria’s family for over 300 years!

Where to eat 

You will certainly eat and drink well in Orvieto, as befits the town which houses the headquarters of Italy’s Slow-Food movement, in the Palazzo del Gusto (www.cittaslow.net). Started in 1999 by a former Mayor of Greve in Chianti, Cittaslow is now an international organisation. Dedicated to the promotion of local, traditional and seasonal foods it encourages respect for good food and healthy eating through local members and associations.

Whilst rough taverns with plank tables and local wine served in pitchers accompanied by bread and sheep’s cheese are, sadly, long gone, the tradition is kept alive by wine shops such as Il Vinicaffe in Via Fillipeschi (www.ilvincaffe.it) or Enoteca La Loggia in Corso Cavour www.enotecalaloggia.it). If you are in Corso Cavour don't miss the Gelateria Pasqualetti, where you can sit at a tiny outside table and eat the most delicious ice-cream.

For an excellent dinner try the Ristorante Al San Giovenale in the piazza of the same name (www.alsangiovenalediorvieto.com). This lovely restaurant has been cleverly built inside an ancient church. Dishes include breast of guinea fowl with truffle stuffing, marinated roast ‘galetto’ (young cockerel). It is worth the trip for the zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and taleggio alone. Good wine advice can be had from the waiter, the choice of local Orvieto wines is excellent and prices are reasonable; antipasti 5 to 6 euros, second courses 10 to 14 euros, Orvieto Classico 12 to 28 euros. We couldn't resist a second visit and were not disappointed.

The Trattoria La Palomba, in Via Manente, is frequently recommended but I was disappointed to be served one of the worst meals I have had in Italy. Other, better, places include the splendid I Sette Consoli in Piazza Sant’Angelo (www.isetteconsoli.it ). Lunch here can be had for 25 euros, dinner for 42 euros for six courses. Ristorante Zeppelin, close to Piazza Della Repubblica, offers good Umbrian dishes (www.ristorantezeppelin.it/) A meal here will cost around 25-30 euros each.  

What to see 

The richly decorated façade of the thirteenth century gothic cathedral is one of the most beautiful in the whole of Italy and the interior contains an equally extraordinary masterpiece. Luca Signorelli’s Last Judgement is a cycle of frescos depicting the end of the world. This breathtaking work, in the Cappella di San Brizio, shows an orgy of suffering with the wicked being caught by devils and consigned to Hell whilst the good souls are summoned by angels with celestial trumpets to join their maker in Heaven. As you enter the cathedral turn and look at the most beautiful stained-glass Rose-Window you have ever seen.

Opposite the cathedral in the Piazza Duomo, along with a couple of bars and a gelateria, you will find the tourist office where you can book, and join, the Orvieto Underground tour (several tours daily, 5.50 euros, about 45mins duration). The guided tour takes you round a spectacular labyrinth of man-made caves and grottoes started by the Etruscans almost 3,000 years ago and continued by subsequent generations. This maze of caves, stairs, wells and cellars has since been used as workshops, places of refuge and, of course, wine cellars. The Bella Umbria website charmingly describes this as the "Suggestive Underground City." You will need to be reasonably active for this trip, and also for St. Patrick's Well, described below.

Take a pleasant ten-minute stroll along the Corso Cavour to the Pozzo di San Patrizio (St Patrick’s Well); a masterpiece of sixteenth century engineering. A trip down a well may not sound too enticing but, believe me, this one’s a gem and well worth the 4.50 euros entrance charge. There are 248 steps, each wide enough for a donkey, down, and 248 steps back up in a double helix spiral stairway, you will need a pretty good camera to do full justice to the photo-opportunity and remember to hold on to it if you take a picture of the water! Fantastic.

If you feel the need to work off a good lunch, or simply want a bit more exercise, then take a walk along the Percorso Rupe to the Etruscan Necropolis at the foot of the cliff. Built as a ‘city of the dead’ over two thousand years ago, this amazing monument consists of dozens of ancient tombs some of the contents of which can be viewed in the Museo Archeologico (3 euros, or a joint Museum/Necropolis ticket for 5 euros). Don't forget to dress as Indiana Jones, or his lovely assistant, for the photos!

And finally...

To sum up, if you like atmosphere, tranquillity and lots of historic charm without the large crowds encountered in the more popular Tuscan and coastal towns then Orvieto is the place for you. No wonder several Popes took refuge here in more troubled times, the city was virtually unassailable and the food and wine were pretty good too!

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More information on Orvieto: a gem in central Italy only two hours from Rome:

Author:
Anthony Rhodes
Traveller type:
Travel Enthusiast
Guide rating:
3.666665
Average: 3.7 (3 votes)
Total views:
534
First uploaded:
10 December 2009
Last updated:
4 years 33 weeks 1 day 2 hours 27 min 38 sec ago
Destinations featured:
Trip types:
Cultural, Food and Drink, Short Break
Budget level:
Budget, Mid-range
Free tags / Keywords:
walking, art, culture, peace, scenery, fine food and wine

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1. B&b Palazzo Del Cardinale
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Community comments (5)

Rating:
4
1 of 1 people found the following comment helpful.

Having visited Italy for the first time last summer, I found this guide inspiring. I am returning to Tuscany this year and will definitely try and include a trip to this lovely city.
I'm new to simonseeks too & find others articles useful

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2 of 2 people found the following comment helpful.

I enjoyed this guide, which made me smile! I, also, am a struggling newcomer, and one of my contests was with resizing photographs! If you have Picasa, (a free download,) you can highlight a too big picture, press 'export' on the bottom line, put the new name at the top, resize next, (I find one up from bottom of scale is best,)and send it to the Picasa export folder, from where (whence?) you can recognise it. Hope this helps, you do get used to it! Myra.

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Hello Myra,
thanks for your kind remarks and for the help with photos, as you will be able to see, I have now managed to add my pictures to the piece.
best regards, Tony.

Rating:
3
1 of 1 people found the following comment helpful.

What this guide is really missing is photographs. You've created a nice picture of the destination for us Anthony, but it needs photographs to complete the view. I had to remove the link to the video you'd provided as it was unavailable - maybe you could check on this? Feel free to add it in again once the problem is resolved.
Al San Giovenale sounds spectacular and it's always nice to read a guide about a place many of us would never have considered before, so thank you.
A couple of editorial notes: be consistent with the styling of your recommendations. The name of one restaurant was in bold, one in italics, and another in bold with speech marks surrounding it. Bold is usually best. There were lots of full stops missing too, especially after brackets.
Perhaps you'd like to add a line in also about the "slow food movement"? Thanks for the link to the site, but a short sentence of explanation from you in your guide would probably help alongside the link, if readers want more information. I have never heard of it before, though certainly intrigued by it now.
Thanks for your contribution.

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Hello Jeanette,
Thanks very much for your kind remarks, and for the constructive criticism. I have tried to unify the bold highlights etc, as you suggested, plus a short paragraph on the Slow-food movement. I have also added some photos, unfortunately my best pictures seem to have too big a file size to upload so I had to use some taken with a cheaper camera, I hope the quality is not too poor. My first attempt to add photos failed, probably because my computer skills are very limited! ( I must say I am enjoying the learning experience of writing for Simonseeks).
With best wishes,
Anthony Rhodes.