Marrakech behind closed doors
- Recommended for:
- Honeymoon, Romance, Expensive
Escape to a Moroccan riad and discover your own boutique retreat, where fountains, courtyards and chilled champagne lie waiting behind closed doors. You may never want to leave...
Have you ever wanted to just close the door on the world and hide away for a weekend? Well, you can at Riad Farnatchi, a boutique retreat that’s tucked away in one of the oldest parts of Marrakech’s medina. As soon as you step inside, the hustle and heat of the souks instantly melts away and there’s a seriously sturdy wooden door to close out the chaos.
Throughout Morocco there has been an explosion of these unique designer hotels - converted riads, or former merchant houses, usually built around an inner courtyard garden. Windowless walls in featurless side streets hide their charm and fashionista style. Step through their sturdy wooden portal doors and another world presides.
Outside Riad Farnatchi the street scene is typical of the medina. Carts are pulled by young boys at a bustling pace, piles of khubz, flat freshly baked bread, are stacked at rickety wooden stalls, fresh vegetables are piled onto cotton sheets and sold off the floor, whilst the beguiling cry of the muezzin is broadcast through crackling loudspeakers.
A shady narrow lane brings you to the door. One snap of the latch and it closes firmly shut, and this other world just ebbs away like a retreating wave, only it doesn’t have to return in any hurry. There you are, standing in silence in a cool marble hallway. Things then just seem to happen without words. Bags arrive and disappear and staff seem to glide effortlessly in and out, almost invisible but for a flash of their understated tunic uniforms.
As you wander through its cool corridors and hidden walkways, the house begins to unravel its abundant charms. It has been created out of five smaller riads and the results are stunning. Interconnected courtyards adorned with fragrant fruit trees offer shady low-slung lounge areas, known as b'hous, bedecked with sumptuous cushions. A tinkling fountain runs into the centrepiece green-tiled pool, where you can take a cooling dip. Follow the twisting stairways and you discover a tree-fringed roof terrace where the minaret-spiked skyline of Marrakech sprawls below.
The rooms continue to reflect this elegant and fascinating fusion of Moroccan and European style. Ours came complete with its own private balcony as well as a sitting room area. The bed was big enough for a rugby team and the sunken marble bath could probably have squeezed them in too.
Whilst the interiors will leave you reeling, it’s the service that will allow you to really unwind. From the moment you get here, you are able to enjoy the great luxury of no longer really having to think for yourself. A quick call from reception to check on our arrival and the charming manager suggests we may like something to eat, perhaps a light salad and some fresh orange juice. After an early morning flight and an even earlier drive to the airport, we seem to have abandoned all hope of decision-making. We are floating in the exuberance of our new-found elegance. This guiding steer is delivered with perfect balance; it's neither overbearing nor bossy and feels positively like a prod in the right direction.
“Yes, a hammam at 3 o’clock sounds wonderful.” I purr over the afternoon’s suggested plans. The manager continues her luxurious list of offerings. “A massage, maybe a glass of champagne, some time to relax in the courtyard. A drink on the terrace for sunset and then perhaps dinner?” I contentedly agree to everything and settle in for an afternoon of not lifting a finger.
Riad Farnatchi, like many of Morocco’s riads, has its own hammam, similar to a Turkish steam bath, where you can be washed and scrubbed clean on a marble plinth. On the bed you will find a pair of traditional babouche slippers as well as a djelaba, a kind of housecoat gown for you to wear. In this largely Muslim country the only real rules of the riad are to keep your swimwear to yourself. Throw on your gown and you can waft around the house as if it’s your own.
By the time you have been pummelled, lazed and lolled, sipped champagne and are settling down for a sunset dinner of pigeon pastilla, a filo pastry speciality, or a traditional lamb tagine, you’ll definitely be thinking that it's probably worth keeping that door closed for another day or two.
Royal Air Maroc flies to Marrakech.