Life's a beach in New Zealand

Have you heard the old tale about the man who searches the world for treasure, only to return home and find it has been there all along? That’s how it is for me with Northland, New Zealand. I grew up there, taking for granted the myriad beaches and bays that fringe the finger of land stretching above Auckland to the country’s northernmost tip at Cape Reinga. Last Christmas, having spent nine years in the northern hemisphere, I returned home for a holiday. And there it was: the jewel I had sought the world over.

For a “proper” beach holiday – no amusement arcades, no serried ranks of deckchairs, no stones where there should be sand – head to Northland. Its selection of unspoilt beaches seems endless and, naturally, the locals all have their favourites. Mine is the hit parade of beaches on the Tutukaka Coast, about a two-and-a-half-hour drive north of Auckland. To get there, head for Whangarei, Northland’s largest city, an easy two-hour drive from Auckland. From Whangarei, head east through stone-walled farmland to Ngunguru, an estuary settlement about 20 minutes’ drive away. Between Ngunguru and Sandy’s Bay, another 20 minutes along the coast, lies paradise for beach-lovers.

Whangaumu (Wellington) Bay

Some families stick to the quiet waters at the edge of the Ngunguru Estuary, but for the pick of the family beaches, drive up over the hill to Wellington Bay, also known by its Maori name, Whangaumu. The crescent-shaped bay offers gentle waves, rock pools to explore, plenty of picnic spots and ample room on the sand for games of beach cricket. Climb the steps to the look-out point on the cliffs at the end of the beach and savour the view back to Ngunguru and out to the open sea in the other direction. At low tide, it is possible to take a scenic walk from here, round the rocks and along the series of tree-lined inlets back to Ngunguru itself.

Tutukaka

The next stop along the coast is a mecca for diving and fishing enthusiasts. From here, charter boats sail to both the Hen and Chicken Islands and the world-renowned Poor Knights Islands, 23 kilometres (14 miles) off the Tutukaka coast. Spectacular diving trips abound, including the chance to see the world’s largest sea cave. Dive! Tutukaka (+64 434 3867; www.diving.co.nz) can be found at the Poor Knights Dive Centre, on the corner of Marina Road and Marlin Place. The company runs an extensive dive charter fleet and includes trips to explore the wrecks of the Waikato and the Tui.

Matapouri

Beyond Tutukaka lies Matapouri, the equivalent of Wellington Bay’s slightly more robust older brother. A sweeping crescent of golden sand and surf, bookended by tree-clad headlands, it offers much for those who like to explore: walk through the rocks and crevices to see the ‘Mermaid Pools’ at the northern end of the beach, or tramp over the bush-clad hill, along the cliff and down to the exquisite Whale Bay.

Whale Bay

There are only two ways to get to Whale Bay; on foot or by boat. Those who arrive by car must park at the top of the hill on the road north from Matapouri, then walk the 10 minutes or so through a native bush reserve down to the beach. Here, the waves roll gently in to the small, secluded bay and the views stretch across the open ocean to the white sands of distant beaches; it is the type of place you wish you could buy and keep for yourself. One word of warning, though: if you do park your vehicle at the top entrance, don’t leave anything valuable in it. It’s a hotspot for thieves well aware that you’re likely to be a good 10-minute walk from your car.

Woolleys Bay

Those seeking the roar of the waves should drive down the hill from Whale Bay to Woolleys Bay, where you can bodysurf in the breakers, search for crabs in the rockpools or hunker down in the small sandhills near the road. With white, fluffy toi-toi – which look a bit like oversized feather dusters - blowing in the breeze, this is New Zealand at its most natural.

Sandy Bay

Just beyond Woolley’s Bay, the final beach in the hit parade of favourites is famed for its surf. The swell at Sandy’s is generally higher than elsewhere, hence it is a regular haunt for surfers and bodyboarders. With farmland opposite and the waves crashing in, it makes for a dramatic natural setting.

Accommodation

The Sands Motel is right on the beachfront at Whangaumu, separated from the sand by a lawn shaded with Pohutukawa trees – known as New Zealand’s Christmas tree, due to their distinctive red blossoms. The motel has six two-bed units, sleeping four to six people; kayaks and dinghies are also available. Prices vary according to the season.

For camping and cabins, visit the Tutukaka Holiday Park, situated in a valley 20km from Whangarei. Facilities range from power or tent sites (both for $15 per adult per night, and $7 per child) to bunk rooms and ensuite cabins, with prices ranging from $60 for a standard double to $110 for self-contained.

For stunning views, try Pacific Rendezvous, a Tutukaka holiday resort that sits atop a peninsula reaching out into the Pacific. It has 30 apartments with sea views, some looking over the harbour and others over the open ocean towards the Poor Knights and Hen and Chicken Islands. Options range from three-bedroom suites to one-bed chalet apartments. There is a minimum two-night stay, with prices beginning at $130 per night in the off-season.

The are also many holiday homes for rent in the area, ranging from the traditional beach bach to much grander houses. For a selection, try www.holidayhouses.co.nz, www.holidayhomes.co.nz or www.bookabach.co.nz.