How to have a good night out in Seville
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As is typical in Spain, nights out in Seville start late, and if you know where to look they carry on until the morning, ending with churros and chocolate down by the river
Most bars and restaurants in Seville stay open until midnight, and some bars stay open until 2 or 3 in the morning. Although some clubs and discos will have opened earlier in the evening, most don't really start hopping until after midnight or even later. Thursdays through Saturdays are the busiest, and some clubs are only open on these days. In summer especially you can spend the late evening bar hopping from terrazza to terrazza, especially on the riverside along Calle Betis in Triana, or along the Alameda de Hercules. Other "hotspots" include the Alfalfa, and the area around the Puerta Arenal.
Below I've recommended some of the best late-night bars, clubs and discos, live music venues, and, of course, some flamenco bars
To start the evening Sevillano fashion grab a cold beer at El Tremendo near the Plaza Santa Catalina, or at Bodeguita Antigua or Los Soportales in the Plaza Salvador. These are popular with the locals and (outdoor) standing room only. For something a bit more exciting beer-wise try the Cerveceria International http://www.cerveceriainternacional.com/ in Calle Gamazo, which has a good selection of European beers.
For those looking for a more British ambience, Flaherty's Irish pub http://www.pflaherty.com/index.php?op=2 in Calle Alemanes is the place to go. Guinness and Murphy's on tap, big screen sports coverage, and English speaking staff. You can get a nice bite to eat here, too, with their curious mix of pub food and "Irish tapas". Other homes from home are Merchants Malt House http://www.merchantpub.com in Calle Canalejas, O'Neills http://www.oneills.es/eng.html opposite the San Bernardo station, The Trinity in the Hotel Inglaterra in Plaza Nueva, and Clan (a Scottish bar) in Calle Adriano. For an American style go to the Tex-Mex in Calle Placentines.
For something more upmarket, with prices to match, you can't beat the Bar San Fernando in the Alfonso XIII hotel (when the weather is warm I love stopping into the open patio for a glass of chilled cava), or cocktails at the trendy Glassy Lounge at 5, Paseo Colon. For the best mojitas and an upbeat cosy atmosphere go to Café L'Art at 17, Calle General Castaños in the Arenal.
For something more quirky, try El Garlochi, on Calle Boteros off the Alfalfa. This dimly lit celebration of all things Semana Santa is stuffed so full of religious memorabilia that it's almost more like a church than a bar.
For one of those magic moments watch the sunset over the Cathedral from the rootop bars at the Fontecruz Hotel on Calle Abades (my favourite, both for the views over the city and the neighbouring rooftops, and good service at reasonable prices), the EME on Calle Alemanes (popular with the hipster crowd), or the Doña Maria just off the Plaza Virgenes de los Reyes.
Flamenco basically comes in three types. The tablaos are professional performances, usually with tapas and drinks, with two shows a night. Typical are Los Gallos, in the Plaza Santa Cruz, El Arenal in Calle Rodo or Patio Sevillano on Cristobal Colon. They're enjoyable, but mostly aimed at the tourist trade.
For a more informal alternative, cross the river to Triana and visit Lo Nuestro on Calle Betis. La Anselma on Pages del Corro used to be a favourite of mine, but seems to have fallen victim to its own success and is now packed with tourists and has lost its charm. Likewise the very well-known La Carbonería in Calle Levies, which used to be the best boho flamenco venue in the centre, now sells souvenirs just inside the entrance.
Some nice one-hour flamenco shows can still be found in the centre at either La Casa de La Memoria on calle Ximenez del Enciso or Auditorio Alvarez Quintero, on the steet of the same name.
For more traditional flamenco, in a tradional setting, take a trek out to the Peña Torres Macarena at Torrijiano, 29. It's outside the old centre, so you might want to take a taxi.
Clubs and discos
One of the best disco clubs is Sala Boss http://www.salaboss.es which is at 67, Calle Betis on the Triana bank of the river, one of the most popular haunts of late-night revellers. It opens its doors around midnight and stays open until dawn. The music is commercial-house, and the clientele mostly trendy twentysomethings. Wednesday is "International Day", and there are funky parties on Thursday nights (or Friday mornings). Entrance is €8 or €10 and includes your first drink.
Groucho's http://www.grouchobar.com is centrally located in Federico Sánchez Bedoya off Avenida Constitución. It is open from 6.00pm to dawn, and the clientele are mostly in their thirties and forties. Altough entrance is free, there's a fairly strict door policy, so dress smartly. The music is normally Spanish pop in the evening, and dance-house at night, with a live flamenco evening on Thursdays.
Another club that attracts an older clientele is Elefunk at Adriano, 10, but the atmosphere here is much more relaxed and informal.
Even more upmarket is the Antique Theatro www.antiquetheatro.com, in Matematicos Rey Pastor y Castro street across the river in the Cartuja. This is probably the most famous disco in Seville and the one where you are most likely to find celebrities like footballers, bullfighters and entertainers. The disco has very good house music with international dj's, and there are VIP and private rooms. Entrance is normally free.
Bestiarío at Zaragoza 33, just off the Plaza Nueva, is one of Seville's longest running clubs, though it's more laid back and aimed at an over-30s crowd.
Poseidon, in Marqués de Paradas, is regarded as Seville's premier gay club, camp glam and complete with drag acts and the like. Gloss, not far away in Julio Cesar Street near Triana Bridge, is also a predominantly gay bar, but by no means exclusively so. The doors open at 8 o'clock, and you can dance the night away at differently themed parties on different nights of the week.
Santuario (Cuesta del Rosario 12) has recently taken over the old Catedral Club space, and seems to be just as popular.
If live music is more your thing, there are some good venues dotted around Seville, but be warned, you're not going to get to bed early. Some of my favourites are Fun Club at Alameda 86 for rock and electric, El Perro Andaluz, a recently renovated bar at Bustos Tavera 11 by Santa Catalina which is a favoured spot for actors and artists, and Sala Malandar at Torneo 43, down by the river, for an eclectic and progressive mix of styles.
More expert advice on Seville
For suggestions on where to stay in Seville, see my Seville hotels page.
Read my overview on Seville nightlife.
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- Shawn Hennessey
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- 2 December 2010
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- As is typical in Spain, nights out in Seville start late, and if you know where to look they carry on until the morning