The Dolomites: a different winter wonderland

By Jill Phillip, a Travel Enthusiast

Read more on Dolomites.

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Recommended for:
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You don’t have to ski to enjoy the snow. Forget the flight, pass over the pistes, cut your carbon footprint and take the train to the Dolomites this winter

Winter activity holidays don’t have to mean downhill skiing. Later this winter I will return to my particular winter wonderland, the Dolomites, to enjoy the snow, but without the queues and unsightly lifts. And, with the added bonus, of a relaxed rail journey there, through some of the world’s most spectacular scenery, free from airport hell and flight guilt.

Like most other visitors, I was immediately captivated by their vibrant colours and spectacular shapes when I first experienced these dramatic mountains. Tucked away in the northern corner of Italy, the area (known as Trentino/South Tyrol) benefits from a unique combination of Germanic/Latin culture, history and cuisine and last year, the Dolomites were, deservedly awarded UNESCO world heritage status.

But the natural and unaffected character of the area is another, equally persuasive, magnet that draws me back to these mountains every winter. Although the region boasts over 1,000km of piste, the Dolomites are not the exclusive preserve of downhillers. The people are welcoming and genuine and the hamlets of South Tyrol are as far removed from the archetypal, commercialised ski resort as is possible to imagine.

The unspoilt villages of Arabba, Pedraces and Corvara in the dramatic Alta Badia region lie in a stunning mountain setting and provide a perfect base for snowshoeing, cross country skiing and winter walking: three excellent cardio-vascular activities that take you in close and personal to this winter wonderland, but with a negligible impact on the environment.

Snowshoeing is much easier than it looks and within minutes of leaving the villages, you will be tracking along rivers, through woodland and across winter pastures. Higher up, waymarked trails give access to remote, snowbound landscapes normally only reached by mountaineers. Make sure you visit the tiny Santa Croce church, 2045m asl, high above Pedraces. Next door, the original Santa Croce Hospice, built over 500 years ago to accommodate pilgrims visiting the church, is now a mountain refugio (tel:+390471839632). Take a well-earned lunch break, enjoy the wholesome food and wonder at the fabulous mountain vistas.

Cross country skiing takes a little longer to master, but Corvara alone has 17kms of woodland and riverside routes below the magnificent Sella Massif. Winter walking (bring good hillwalking boots, or “four season” if you intend to use crampons) will soon take you far away from the pistes into a remote winter panorama with only its equally magnificent fauna for company: the brilliant blue skies and pristine white landscapes cleverly camouflage the arctic hares and silver foxes, but it is not unusual to spot golden eagles and chamois.

Another bonus is that no expensive, specialised equipment is needed. Other than boots, pack waterproof outers, warm jacket, hat, gloves, layers and sunglasses. Snowshoes (around five euros per day) and cross country skis can be hired from sports shops in the villages, such as Sport Kostner in Corvara (Col Alt 34, 39033 Corvara, tel:+390471836112).

How to get there:
One of the key highlights of a holiday in the Dolomites, for me, is the journey itself: boarding the overnight train in Paris, travelling through the Alps, then lifting the blinds up next morning to the delightful medieval roofscapes of Verona and Padua. And a more prosaic advantage is that you can take as much footwear, bulky outer gear and extra layers as you can carry.

Eurostar’s www.eurostar.com carbon neutral trains whisk you to Paris Nord in just over two hours and return journeys start at £60. One useful, but little-known, hint for those outside the capital: discounted fares to London can be obtained through www.raileasy.com or the “Eurostar” section in www.seat61.com Remember to enter your destination as London International and not the terminus you arrive at.

Leaving the wonderful new St Pancras station www.stpancras.com mid-afternoon, it is possible to reach the Dolomites around lunchtime the next day on the overnight “Stendhal” service, departing Paris Gare de Bercy at 20.33, arriving Venice at 9.34 next morning. The return train leaves Venice at 19.57, arriving Gare de Bercy 8.19 next morning.

Use Mark Smith’s indispensable www.seat61.com (it’s worth a look even if you don’t travel by train) for inexhaustible details of routes, fares, booking instructions, connections, maps and even advice on the best way to travel between different termini in Paris.

As well as providing a superior journey experience, travelling by train can be cheaper, depending on type of accommodation and number of travellers. While it can be expensive for one or two people in a first class sleeper, six people sharing a couchette can travel for as little as £33 each, one way, booking well in advance and taking advantage of discounted fares. Remember, the price also effectively includes overnight accommodation as well as journey cost.

Venice has two stations: Mestre, on the mainland and Santa Lucia in the city centre. Tickets are valid to and from either station. Many of the hotels in the Dolomites offer transfers from Venice (Marco Polo) airport: get off at Mestre and take one of the frequent buses from outside the station. Journey time is about 15 minutes and details are available from the airport’s website: http://www.veniceairport.it/page/servizi/trasporti/treno?m=01020201# The site also contains a wealth of details about Venice and surrounding area, including how to reach the mountains by public transport, or hire car: http://www.veniceairport.it/page/turismo?m=1500002

Where to Stay: Collett’s Mountain Holidays www.colletts.co.uk offer a range of accommodation in hotels, hosted chalets and self-catering properties in Arraba, Pedraces and Corvara. Collett’s are renowned for their love and knowledge of the Dolomites and their flexibility, offering snowshoeing, winter walking and cross country skiing. They are a particularly good choice for anyone holidaying on their own as they attract an eclectic mix of ages, families, groups, couples and individuals, offer a sociable “office hour” each evening and serve meals in a communal atmosphere.

For independent travellers, the Hotel Melodia del Bosco Runccac, Runcac
8, 39036 Badia/Pedraces www.melodiadelbosco.it offers warm hospitality, wonderful Mediterranean and Tyrolean food and helpful, multi-lingual staff. Run by the Irsara family and extensively renovated two years ago, it occupies a stunning position, has stylish en suite rooms, a whirlpool and provides guests with extensive local knowledge. Half board starts at around £54 per night in the low season.

The Sport hotel in Arabba, Via Mesdi, 32020 Arabba, Livinallongo del Col di Lana (Veneto) Italy www.sporthotelarabba.com is luxurious, but retains a relaxed and informal atmosphere. Half board is available from £84 per night.
 

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More information on The Dolomites: a different winter wonderland:

Author:
Jill Phillip
Traveller type:
Travel Enthusiast
Guide rating:
3.666665
Average: 3.7 (3 votes)
Total views:
907
First uploaded:
30 December 2009
Last updated:
5 years 26 weeks 3 days 2 hours 40 min 24 sec ago
Destinations featured:
Trip types:
Activity, Eco, Winter Sports
Budget level:
Mid-range, Expensive
Free tags / Keywords:
sleeper train, Beautiful Scenery, alternative winter sports

Jill recommends

Hotels

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(out of 5)
1. Hotel Melodia Del Bosco
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2. Sport Hotel
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Community comments (7)

0 of 0 people found the following comment helpful.

Hi Nic,
No problem, European overnight train travel ticks all the boxes and definitely great for kids!
Jill

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1 of 1 people found the following comment helpful.

We have taken the sleeper for family holidays for many years now-the kids love it!
The Dolomites is our next adventure, thanks for the tips

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0 of 0 people found the following comment helpful.

I also find the train option far less stressful than flights & transfers - I get the Eurostar from London to Moutiers each year and some friends do the Paris - Bourg Saint Mourice leg quite often too.

I think the rest of Europe are more aware of the train routes than us Brits, so this is a good recommendation for our UK based readers. Although, US based readers maybe inspired to use the train to visit a few different resorts during their European ski trip.

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Thanks for the positive comment Rick. I was prompted to write the article partially by the number of people who have asked me for advice on how to travel across Europe by train: most of them have subsequently had positive experiences and have found it much less stressful, often less expensive and much more rewarding.
On an overnight train journey back from Budapest last summer I met several Americans and Canadians who had flown to Britain but then travelled across Europe by rail. High speed trains generally are far superior to short haul flights across western Europe

Yea I think it's a good option for the US travellers.

Maybe a guide on how to tour a few European ski resorts over a 2 week hol would be good???

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0 of 0 people found the following comment helpful.

Jill, thank you for another well written guide with lots of personal touches and a lovely selection of photographs. Your "How to get there" section is slightly too long, especially as not all of our readers are based in the UK (or even Europe) so will not be able to follow your advice, although it does contain some useful links and suggestions. Please also make sure that all prices are in the local currency. In this guide you alternate between pounds and euros.

Do other readers agree with Jill's advice? Can you add any more places to stay/ eat/ see? Thanks.

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Hi Cathy, thanks for the comment. Will edit the "how to get there" section and can certainly add another hotel recommendation. However, I did write the article partially because I have been asked so often for advice on how to travel to the Dolomites by train and, for me, it is one of the key reasons why I go to the Dolomites and an integral part of the holiday. I do think it important to show that it is relatively straight forward and can be cheaper and a much better option if travelling with a lot of kit. I also met several transatlantic travellers last summer on an overnight journey from Budapest who always travel by train across western Europe.
Jill