Counting churches, eating cake - shed calories in Tavira

Tavira, a charming riverside town at the quieter end of the Algarve, boasts more than its fair share of churches. In fact the number of churches are probably only exceeded by the number of pastelaria - cake shops to you and me. So it's a great place for combining culture and gluttony - consume the calories then enjoy burning them off.

Start out at the Ponte Romana, the Roman Bridge, for one of the best views in Tavira. Nearby Tavira Romana’s pavement cafe is just the place to fortify yourself (Praca da Republica 1). It’s hard to choose from such abundance but I really love the fig and almond ice-cream and the almond topped tarts.

Time to burn a few calories - from the Praca da Republica head up the steps and through Porta de Dom Manuel, the town gate. Passing the tourist information office, directly ahead you will see the Igreja da Misericordia. The graceful façade was finished in 1551 but it is the interior that astounds, with beautiful blue and white tiled panels (azulejos) depicting the life of Christ.

Next, turn right and continue upwards to the Palacio da Galeria, a building on a grand scale, now used to host exhibitions. Step inside to see visible remains of Roman Tavira through glass panels in the floor, while excavation continues at the rear. Pause to admire the view out over the characteristic tessoura tiled rooftops then continue upwards to Igreja da Santa Maria.

Santa Maria dates from the 13th century - the site of a former mosque, it holds the tombs of seven Christian knights killed by the Moors. Like many of Tavira’s churches it was badly damaged by the earthquake of 1755 and rebuilt, in the Gothic style, by an Italian architect. Relax in the beautiful gardens of the medieval castle on the same square but if you need refreshment pop into the café at the old Water Tower - also a camera obscura.

It’s downhill again now. If you struggle with hills you can still make it up here on the miniature train, which runs around town. It stops just outside the castle walls.

Our next church, Igreja de Santiago with its Baroque splendour, is easily reached down the steps of Calcada dos Sete Cavaleiros ( Lane of the 7 Knights). From here a left down Rua D. Paio Peres Correia will bring you on to the main street, Rua da Liberdade, just by the Post Office. If this is a good time to stop for lunch, I suggest Al-far-roba, just up from the Post Office at no 72. (281 107 488; www.restaurantealfarroba.com). They do a good lunch time set menu at 12 euros. We dined there recently and were impressed by the house steak in creamy mustard sauce with a fried egg on top. The Algarvian carrots and olives with chillies were a delicious appetizer too. If you just want more cake then Casa dos Bules - literally "cake shop" - at 33 Rua da Liberdade would do the job very nicely (281 324 346).

Time for another church - Nossa Senhora de Consolacao is a tiny place of repose on Rua de Liberdade, or take Rua Tenente Couto to your left. Across a green square, Praca Zacarias Guerreiro, two churches face each other - Sao Jose do Hospital, with its trompe l’oeil altarpiece, and Sao Francisco, a monastery from 13th century whose foundation was attributed to the Knights Templar. After two earthquakes, 1722 and 1755, partial collapse in 1843 and a fire in 1881 it is amazing that anything remains. Even if you cannot gain entry to the church its gardens are a pleasure and a lovely tranquil spot. The public cemetery until 1918, old coats of arms and tombstones blend with hibiscus and bougainvillea. Leave the garden by the opposite entrance and turn left towards the Atalaia Barracks, another impressive building, where the troops regularly recline on the roof terrace. A left down Rua 25 de Abril then right onto Rua D. Marcelino Franco brings you back into café territory.

Pastelaria Tavirense at no 17 on this square is a well established cake shop with lots of choice, though relatively expensive. You might prefer freshly squeezed orange juice from the kiosk and a sit on a shady bench before admiring Nossa Senhora das Ondas - Our Lady of the Waves, and it’s magnificently painted ceiling. Just around the corner you are back on the riverfront where the choice of cafes is staggering. From Bar Gilao in the covered market to Muxagata, the ice cream kiosk, everywhere you look is temptation.

Cross over the River Gilao next - whichever bridge, it doesn’t really matter - the views are all superb. Pass through Rua 5 de Outubro without hovering over the chocolate selection in Ex Libris if you can. Praca Dr Antonio Padinha is one of Tavira's prettiest squares, and is dominated by Sao Paulo, built in the shape of a Latin Cross. At Cafe Nicola, the bread specialist on the corner, you can buy very good value bread or cakes, to eat in or out.

Uphill again now on the Rua Corujeira Pequena to the Sao Bras chapel.  We first spotted this church on a festival day and the gardens were festooned with handmade paper flowers - an enchanting sight.  Continuing to the right, the stately Carmo Church is in the oldest and highest part of town. A superb example of rococo art and gilded altarpieces are revealed inside. The large courtyard is the venue for free concerts in summer.

Finally head downhill back to the river, passing the church with the prettiest facade in Tavira, Nossa Senhora do Livramento. A glass of port at Anazu on Rua Jaques Pessoa - the friendliest of cafes - is my preferred way of waiting for that magical moment, sunset. Spotlights come on above the Misericordia and the bell towers throughout the town acquire a green glow. 

The churches are mostly open in the mornings or from mid-afternoon. My advice, if it's open go in. They're a little unpredictable - it's part of their charm. The Tavira Tours book, usually free from tourist information, will help. The cake shops abound. Most are heavy on the almonds and marzipan, few will cost more than a couple of euros. I have included a Google map with a few more options: http://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=10308002710303....

Where to stay

I am a big fan of the pousadas - state owned hotels, which preserve the national heritage. They are elegant and stylish. We watched the Convento de Graca Pousada Tavira being lovingly converted over a number of years and were delighted with the result. The cloisters are beautiful. Not normally a cheap option, you can often get a promotion which will give you a good deal, especially if one of you is over 55 - see www.pousadasofportugal.com. Otherwise expect to pay 200 euros per night for a double. 

My favourite hotel would have to be the Hotel Vila Gale Albacora. I love the location and often pop in to sit beside the pool. If you like boats this one is for you - the hotel has its own for transport to Tavira Island's lovely beach or into town. The video link on the website www.vilagale.pt will give you a good idea what to expect. Not for you if you like to be in the centre of things - double rooms from 60 euros per night.

Well located and a cheaper option, the Porta Nova has lovely views over the town from its generous pool area and is just up the road from the Venezuela pastelaria included in my Google map. You will pay from 40 euros per night.