Beauty and the beach-the best of both in the Eastern Algarve

The Eastern Algarve is not so well manicured as its sophisticated western neighbour, but that is very much a part of its charm. It's every bit as beautiful and the variety might surprise you. It's also extremely good value for money. This guide features two highly contrasting areas a short distance apart. Many, equally inviting others await exploration, so why not head east from Faro airport?

Just 7 km north west of the main town of Tavira, with its lovely riverside location, you can find a spot known locally as Pego do Inferno. Now Hell's Pool might not sound very promising as a destination, but trust me, hell it's not! Legend has it that a team of oxen and their handlers fell into the pool one day and were never seen again! I watched for a while as some youngsters launched themselves into the pool from an overhanging tree, just to reassure myself that they reappeared. The pool is reached by a series of  wooden walkways and a bridge. A waterfall plunges into invitingly emerald water. Nearby are picnic areas and in summer a tiny chalet selling drinks and snacks. A short walk away more falls cascade into the river- serenely beautiful yet little visited, this is just the place for dabbling your toes, a riot of pink oleanders the perfect backdrop.

How to get there

From Tavira the road to Cachopo (N397) follows the River Gilao, winding past a sea of bamboo canes and orange groves. This is ideal cycling terrain. Keep a sharp eye open for a left turn after 4km, signed Moinhos da Rocha/Pego do Inferno. The Pego signs are straightforward from here on. To reach the quieter falls- from the Pego car park walk back to the T junction. Follow the track uphill with lemon trees either side for a good kilometre till you pass Quinta Bonita on your right. Take the track bearing left and the cascades are on your right, a few hundred metres on. After a paddle you can return the same way or carry on across the ford. A left on the tarmac road and another at the next crossroads will bring you back to the car park, 2.5km overall.

Mesa do Cume- Table on the Top- for wonderful food

Back on the N397 Cachopo road, a drive up through the hills will bring you to Alcaria do Cume (literally village on the top) in about 20 minutes. Just before you reach the village, the Mesa do Cume car park is signed to the left. Aside from the glorious views down to the coast from here, the Dutch owners, Antonio and Maria, will serve you sublime food with a warm welcome. A box of leaflets sits on a table in the garden giving details of walking and biking trails in the surrounding area. Whether you walk before or after your meal, or not at all, is up to you.

I had seen an irresistible magazine photograph of the restaurant’s Baked Camembert with marinated figs, marmelo sauce and jasmine rice and I was not disappointed. For 12 euros this was a feast. I was glad that I already had this dish in mind as the menu was so full of promise that I could have spent the entire lunch hour deciding. View it on www.mesadocume.net  The whole experience was delightful, from the crusty homemade bread with olive butter onwards. (Telephone 281 326 144)

Cabanas

And now, as they say, for something completely different. 5km to the east of Tavira lies former fishing village Cabanas. Part of the Ria Formosa nature reserve, Cabanas is also blessed with a glorious beach. With its new boardwalk making the most of the views across the lagoon, and backed by numerous bars and restaurants, Cabanas is becoming a stylish place to be. Reaching the beach can be an adventure- you need to take to the water. Small 9 or 10 person ferries zip backwards and forwards to the island. The boatman will help you in, but you might still get your feet a tiny bit wet- just one of those endearing rough edges I so love about this part of the world.

Once on the island you follow the boardwalk out past a well-positioned beach café, with great views back to the mainland or out to sea. The beach disappears off into the distance so no problems finding a quiet spot. If you enjoy a good walk, turn left and you will eventually be rewarded by the sight of the village of Fabrica, far away across the lagoon. High on the hill, the church and fortress of Cacela Velha- a tempting venue for another day. Low tide sees the locals wading in the lagoon, collecting shell life for supper or for sale.

O Monte- Quinta Velha Village- a fine dining experience

Cabanas is situated off the coast road, E125. After passing through Conceicao and over the railway tracks you come to one of the older developments, Quinta Velha Village, a former olive tree farm. Recently given a new lease of life by young architect Claudia and her partner Tito, it is home to a special restaurant, O Monte. The décor and old stone walls are beautiful, attention to detail is paramount and the food is beautifully presented. I love the pasta and fish dishes, from 12 euros, and the wine selection is superb. (Qt Old Cabanas, Cabanas de Tavira 8800-591 tel 915 384 220)   

Where to stay

Tavira itself  has excellent hotels but if you want a more rural setting Quinta da Fonte do Bispo has everything you could want in a holiday, including an enticing pool set in beautiful gardens. There are 6 cottages, sleeping 1-5 people, ideal for families or group bookings. Nobody could accuse this hotel of not trying hard to entertain and the website includes videos of the many activities on offer. The hotel prides itself on being very good value and often has special offers and group rates, the cheapest currently being 50 euros for 2, including breakfast. The bar/restaurant is a very sociable space with an extensive menu at competitive prices. Sunday carvery costs 10 euros.

Nearer to Cabanas, Hotel Casa Vale del Rei (Almargem,8800-053 Tavira, tel 281 323 3099)  is small and friendly with the personal touch. It's a "come again" kind of place, perfect for relaxation, barbecue and microwave being provided in the lovely grounds. The images on the website are extremely seductive and no breakfast comes more highly recommended.  7 ensuite doubles cost from 80 euros per night.

Numerous budget airways fly into Faro, including Easyjet, Jet 2 and Ryanair.